- Viva Veracruz -
Musings from and about living in Mexico

The Party’s Over
Friday May 16th 2008, 9:31 am
Filed under: Mexico, Mexico-Travel, Around Mexico

We made it through yet another party. I am not complaining – from a retired guy’s perspective – a lot of parties are a good thing. ;-)

Vince in her fiesta dress (ENLARGE Here)

Yesterday I was a bit confused as to how this birthday party related to a Mexican tradition. When I asked Vicente why is this party for his five year old daughter important or significant (and no I didn’t say significant in Spanish – ‘significativo’), his response was personal not having any bearing on a broader tradition like that of the fifteen year old female. He said he and Lidia had several parties for their now twelve year old son and none for their daughter – so there you have the rest of that story.

I did pickup the chairs and later drove Vicente to Coatepec to pickup the cake that Anita and Lidia had ordered the day before. This presented a minor problem and caused the motivation for a tip to travelers to our part of Mexico – first the tip: I have suggested on more than one occasion to try and not go across the border on a weekend for fairly obvious reasons – a lot of people are doing it and the delays can be significant.

Here is a more subtle but what can be equally aggravating situation. Many Mexican workers are paid on the 1st and 15th of the month. If you happen to be traveling in or through Xalapa or Coatepec on these dates you will encounter hellacious traffic. These people armed with paychecks are out about in mass. Parking and just driving itself becomes more of a challenge than normal – and normal is often quite challenging. So try not to arrive in Xalapa on those dates if you are driving.

Now here in Mexico they make a cake called tres leches pastel. I had to let Anita and Vicente out of the truck and drive around three long blocks back and forth rather than parking – because there was none. Going around those blocks allotted plenty of time for the two to get the cake.

The problem was the three leches (milk, half and half or cream in this case) came off basically as a large rectangular festively decorated cake floating in milk – all placed on a flimsy piece of plastic.

When the two got in the truck the liquids were rolling from one end to the other and over the edges onto my trucks seats and floor – grrrr. Also, Vicente had spent most of the morning with the pig project (killing, cutting and cooking). He had showered and got into his party clothes (possibly the only ones he owns). Along with my truck seats and floor this poor guy was spattered with the tres leches. The stuff is sticky. It was 92F outside and the people thick as flies and the flies were as thick as flies – this was not a good scenario.

So another tip – if you happen to order a celebratory cake and are talked into the 3-milks style – bring a container. Actually the thought of cake floating in milk while unappetizing in my way of thinking, didn’t taste bad – of course if nothing else the cake was moist ;-)

We had a terrific time. Lidia orders tamales sin carne just for us – what a nice gesture I thought. Here in the Hood you can order delicious homemade tamales from an excellent cook. She charges 2.5 pesos (about 25 cents US) per tamale. So while we can’t get pizza delivered from Coatepec or Xico here in Poor Man’s Shangri-La, you can get some fine prepared food at a bargain price.

Mexican parties run in shifts of people. They come, they are fed and they move on. There were more than 200 people that passed through this party – all in an orderly manner. I don’t think there were more than 30 at any one time. I have no idea how this seemingly well organized process actually happens.

I am pretty sure the entire 150 or more pounds of pig was totally utilized save perhaps the feet for soup another day. Someone suggested in the comments that they kill the fatted pig on the day of the fiesta to avoid having to cool and house the body parts – a volume that would surely exceed any refrigerator around here – I have yet to see a freezer anywhere.

They have been feeding and caring for the pig for a year. I asked Vicente if the children on the compound  (kids from five families), if they don’t get upset seeing the pig killed and cut-up on the spot. Like the difference regarding their relationship with domestic pets, farm animals are for food – the children know it and accept the process without a blink.

How many stories or actual experiences have we had in the U.S. about a kid falling in love with a farm animal and then the ensuing struggle with the food processing part of that? This sad scene probably is not going to happen here in Mexico.

During the party that went on from 3 PM to about 8:30 PM I took a bunch of photos. At a couple points I ran home and processed a couple and then returned with 8 X 10 prints – what a hero I can become with my U.S. toys.

Of course people are far less used to having their picture taken even at a party. I have a great time snapping photos and it often breaks the ice between me and people I don’t know – sometimes it creates some as well.

One pretty young girl that I had captured a few images of left and returned with her cell phone replete with built-in camera; she started taking pictures of me taking pictures of her. She and her friends got a good laugh over that. A good time was had by all. Now we are in the final packing stages to head to the U.S. The party’s over. Stay Tuned!



Don’t Let the Smoke
Get in Your Lens
Thursday May 15th 2008, 3:50 pm
Filed under: Mexico, Around Mexico

I took this image at Rancho del Cielo the other day to show you the smoke in the air. It is still thick - but we have some cooling rain this afternoon. (ENLARGE Here)



Killing the Fatted Puerco
Thursday May 15th 2008, 11:17 am
Filed under: General, Mexico, Around Mexico

Today is yet another fiesta. This one is close to home as it is being thrown by our friend’s and neighbors Vicente and Lidia. The cause of celebration is that of their five year old daughter’s birthday.

I confess I am busy and rushed at the moment. I don’t have the background information on the five year old celebration. As memory serves it is a line of demarcation where the child has survived the most dangerous childhood years and is likely to make it to adulthood? But I could be totally off base – so I will leave it at that for the moment. I should add that Mexico has made great strides in reducing the infant mortality rate.

We had planned on leaving today for the U.S. We put it off to not miss our good friends big party, and after all we are retired and live by a very flexible schedule (what a bonus for the retired!). I do have to be out of the Country at the end of the month when my visa extension runs out.

Early this morning Anita headed over to party central to help with slicing, dicing, wrapping and decorating; she reported that she was conscripted to blow up some balloons. Here I threw my assistance hat in the ring.

“I have the Coleman electric air mattress pump in the truck. I could blow those balloons up muy rapido!” I was raised to NOT volunteer for anything – this held up until I got here – oh well.

I have just returned from that job. The pump worked out great. Of course while I was there I got a few more tasks. Soon I will have to go with the truck and get some rental chairs. They are here in the Hood just a few blocks away. In a minute or two I have to go do that.

Here is a tip: the last time I volunteered for chair pickup and delivery we made three trips back and forth because the rental folks were not there the first two times. This time I insisted that someone walk over and ascertain that they were there and the chairs were available. I am trying to learn to manage my fuel consumption – see an old dog can learn a new trick or two.

Oh, when I was over there they had just slaughtered the fatted pig for the fiesta. I would have thought they would have done this a day or two prior – but no this guy left the living and will be consumed all on the same day – a better way to go – become part of a living organism almost immediately?

I took some possibly offensive photos because I found their process (after the actual life ending part) was interesting and different – but I will wait to see how these came out and if the mood I am allows me to think they are appropriate; certainly an explanation will be fitting – more on this after I get the chairs – so Stay Tuned!



Tuesday May 13th 2008, 4:56 am
Filed under: Mexico, Mexico-Travel, Around Mexico

Ten years ago Southern Mexico was plagued by fires. We were living in Prescott, Arizona at that time. I remember the smoke from those fires made it all the way to Prescott. In addition we owned land in New Mexico where the smoke was really invasive.

Here we are ten years later and a thousand mile closer to that fire zone in southern Mexico from Chiapas all the way down to Honduras. The smoke in the air has been thick since arriving up at Ranch del Cielo.

Fortunately to date the fires are not as bad as those of 1998. We actually had a smattering of rain late yesterday afternoon. If you have smoke in your part of Mexico – please report in. Stay Tuned!



Social Dilemma – Need Help!
Monday May 12th 2008, 10:21 am
Filed under: Mexico, Opinion, Around Mexico

We have some friends in Poor Man’s Shangi-La that have a broken television set. Now it isn’t mortally broken. The nino’s have pulled the cables from the DVD player which double duties between two TV’s so many times and roughly to create a problem.

The connectors that receive the cables on the TV have become loose and obviously the wires connected to the connectors are partially broken because the cables have to be jiggled to a just right point to get sound.

I was over there trying to watch a futbol game. Intermittently one or another person had to get up and tweak the cables to re-establish the sound. After a few beers and during an exciting soccer match this entire little aggravation grows on you – at least it did me.

After a number of these events, one day I decided to take it upon myself to evaluate the problem – get to the bottom of it. I walked back to my casa and retrieved a proper working cable. I replaced the one between my amigos dvd player and his TV. One of the ends on his dual cable was open – not working at all.

With my cables inserted I further deduced there was in fact an intermittent wire or two on the back of the connectors in the set. The connectors themselves were quite wobbly – from being tortured by the kids too numerous of times.

As previously mentioned I was an electronic engineer in a previous phase of life. I even repaired televisions when I was a kid – eons ago. So I came to the party with a more than qualified capability to repair these problems. Here is where my dilemma develops.

I explained to my friend that he had multiple problems – the cable and the connectors on the set. I could repair both fairly easily. We would need to schedule a time when their TV could be out of service for about an hour – no small situation as I can’t remember ever being there when that set wasn’t lit up.

Over the next few weeks on several occasions including days when I knew he wasn’t working I suggested we fix the set whenever he was ready – I mean I am retired and just waiting on others more busy schedules to be of help.

Well the short of it is this has gone on for more than a month and we have not fixed that TV or his cable situation. I didn’t want to fix his cables until the set was fixed to avoid them being damaged again from all the twiddling to get the sets connectors working – of course – in the mean time he is twiddling my cables – cables I brought over to test against the others and not to be a permanent temporary fix to his problem.

Today I am asking myself why? Why has my friend not seized the opportunity to get his set fixed? My thought process says a more than qualified guy offers to fix something of mine for free at my convenience – I am going to do this sooner than later – seize the opportunity.

I ask Anita, “What do you think is the reason he hasn’t had me fix that set?. Then I could also get my cable back. It is an expensive one for high end audio. I need it back.”

OK I don’t really need it back today or even tomorrow. We are leaving for two months. I know this must read a little greedy to want something back I am not in need of – but the bottom line is the cable is mine and I didn’t take it there to donate as a band aid for his problem, rather to demonstrate what it was.

I know there are tornados, earthquakes, wars and world hunger looming out there beyond my life in Ursulo Galvan; and perhaps I am wasting electrons and cluttering the Internet with petty problems – but there is a larger social question than my $30.00 cables and my friend’s broken television.

I am pretty sure a neighbor in the US would have had me fix their set. They would be watching television problem free and I would have exercised my talent and neighborly tendencies.

So what gives? I am pretty sure this is not atypical here in Mexico. What is it in the Mexican’s head that doesn’t motivate them to seize such an opportunity? I know I should have just taken my cables back so his aggravation would be great enough to perhaps get over the hurdle of actually wanting me to fix his set – but honestly at the time I thought we would be doing this in short order and he might as well enjoy the less hassle until then.

Obviously I can retrieve my cables. He will return to greater aggravation and perhaps want to fix the set or go find another set of cables. I am decided that I will bring back from the States a cheap set of interconnect cables. I think I have many in a box or two kicking around the garage in New Mexico – you know the gray or black cable with white and red connectors on both ends to connect a music system, DVD or VCR to a television? They are a couple bucks (or at least they were the last time I bought any).

That will get my higher quality expensive audio connector back in my possession – but it will NOT answer the why haven’t we fixed his television. Perhaps I have too much time on my hands – to even be considering this. But, I seem to want to know what motivates my fellow man more than I use to. There is a social barrier here that I simply do not understand – maybe you do? If so write. I know there must be an answer to this so Stay Tuned.



A Little Blogging History
Sunday May 11th 2008, 8:35 am
Filed under: Mexico, Opinion, Blogging, Mexico-Travel

This is my 700th entry amounting to nearly 500,000 words or the length of 7 average books. It is the anniversary of my third year of this Blog.There has been more than 4000 comments.

Shy, reserved and having little to say are not character qualities one might attribute to me.

I have been congratulated, encouraged, copied, published, railed upon, criticized and even threatened since the inception of this Blog.

There have been over 200,000 unique visits – this amazes me even more than the volume of production.

I have tried advertising, actually received some donations and threatened to quit all on more than one occasion.

Ostensibly this Blog is for my own entertainment – and it does entertain occasionally. More than once Anita has asked why I am laughing out loud while sitting here in front of my computer otherwise being quiet and engulfed in pixels creating letters, numbers and pictures.

But what has all this really meant in the grand scope of things – probably not a lot. I first visited the area we now live in late 2004. I wrote my first Blog entry on May 10th 2005.

In December of 2006 the Viva Veracruz Forum was started with the encouragement of Marie and a little help from Julian and friends. I have also threatened to end that on a couple of occasions – but it is still going strong; and I believe it is a useful forum.

Some of you have been here through a lot of changes in our lives; the purchase of our Casita property in Ursulo Galvan, the renting and eventual buying of Rancho del Cielo, a number of building projects, the growth of our son from a home schooled computer nerd to an independent working, launched from the nest, computer nerd.

You have been around since we sold our house in Colorado, I dare say the Blog even helped in the sense that a lot of information about our Earthship and the GREEN life style ended up here – especially during the months we were in the States.

I know some new people and even have what I would call friends that have come into my life via this Blog – curious that. Billie, Jonna, Ignacio, Adrian, Michael Dickson, Marie, Wayne, Ed Portis, Hollito, Teresa, La Gringa, Emily, John Woods, Steve in Oregon, Stephen and Pat, Bonnie, Greg in Florida, and of course my argumentative friend Joe In Idaho to name just a few. I have learned a lot from these people and the many others. Consider a Blog great opportunity to get some non-professional therapy.

Actually there are a few professionals like my long time Internet friend, even before the Blog, Dr. Jim Phypers – and he has yet to send me a bill ;-) .

There has been in heat wave in our area. It was predicted that we would have the hottest summer in the last 100 years. Apparently this is playing out. Jim Phypers reports:

BIG TIME HEAT WAVE HERE AND THE HIGHEST TEMPS ANYBODY CAN EVER RECALL… 110 HERE FOR THE LAST TWO DAYS!!! DON’T KNOW WHAT THE TEMP WAS AT NIGHT, BUT IT MAY NOT HAVE GOTTEN DOWN INTO THE 80′S… THANKS HEAVENS FOR THE RIO.

We were experiencing some 90 degree temperatures in the Lance camper. So we are up at Rancho del Cielo where it is 8-10 degrees cooler. We had a lovely night as it cools down into the 60’s. Last year on this date we were enjoying beautiful spring weather in Colorado. A week from now we will be on our way to New Mexico and a two month visit to the U.S.

But today life is good here in southeast Mexico. Stay Tuned for another 500,000 words.



Heat Wave
Saturday May 10th 2008, 6:29 am
Filed under: Mexico, Mexico-Travel

We are a third of the way into May. Here in the Xalapa area it has been hot – as hot as I have experienced here; and as predicted generally May is the hottest month in Veracruz.

Just how hot? Well it is safe to write that it has been in the low 90’s in Fahrenheit or low 30’s for centigrade. Reports from a few say it is as hot as they have experienced it here so perhaps the warnings of a very hot summer in Veracruz are accurate?

The thing that is really different from the perspective of a four season’s person is there essentially was no spring. Or looking at it another way (perhaps from a Colorado perspective) there was no winter.

I guess I would characterize the weather here as having three season. There is no winter.

Generally it might be written that there are two seasons fall and summer. But then you have to add in the raining season that will soon be upon us. Because of the moist air or humidity it rains in the summer.

Or maybe it goes like this: October through March is fall like May through July is summer like and August through September is spring like. Are you confused? I am. ;-)

Whatever the confusing season characterization, currently it is what I call hot and what my amiga Jonna in Merida would call warm. Jonna a very intelligent woman with many valuable opinions will never be called cold blooded – she can turn up the heat and she likes it ;-)

I read on her Blog where she had her first fender bender in Mexico. It was literally a fender bender; her left front fender is now heading outward. Yesterday when we headed into Coatepec I had a mirror scrapper. This wasn’t my first in Mexico. We have had a meeting of the mirrors a couple of other times.

In this case Javier, his wife and three children were stuffed in our back seat (actually I think they could have got one more in there?). As I slowly drove through a squeeze pen of two trucks my mirror kissed a still larger trucks mirror.

I’m sure the hombres who were unloading saw the foreign plates and thought they won the mini-lottery - you know where you scratch off something and there is an immediate payoff. As I kept going I heard them whistling to me.

In as much as my mirror didn’t even go out of adjustment I was quite sure there was no damage save possibly a half inch black streak on their mirror shell from mine. I drove on. Sometimes an executive decision is required in these matters.

For those of you that come here to get a feel for the territory let me write that while warm and mildly humid I personally don’t find it oppressing. When it is 90 plus I think of other things and don’t let it bother me. Also you can count on it cooling off at night unlike some other Mexican hot spots.

Yesterday there were some mild breezes, a fan effect, that brushed the heat out of your face just enough to not be stifled. I think it is good weather here and if this is the toughest you got – well bring it on. I am happy. Next Blog entry will be my 700th - wow! Stay Tuned!



A Sound Investment
Wednesday May 07th 2008, 8:04 am
Filed under: Mexico, Around Mexico

Years ago in a land far far away – in another life – I was a recording engineer. One of the many different recording projects in which I was involved was to make environmental sound recordings – you know the ones like the ocean waves gently slapping the beach. I remember doing one project and a sequel even of the sounds of whales – they do make a soothing noise.

This morning I was thinking what great sounds start the day here in our part of Mexico.

We are more or less at the top of what I would call the tropical zone. In Mexico from here down you will feel more like you are in South America than in what most Northerners perceive Mexico as being. We have no dry plains or cactus. Here it is tropical.

Before the vendors start cruising the neighborhood clanking on propane tanks, playing electronic music advertising tortillas, yelling into bull horns, “Naranghas! Cuatro kilos por diez pesos” ; hombres honking horns to call out co-workers; huge diesel buses roaring around our corner; mopeds with their little horns blaring to let us all know the tortilla scooters are in the Hood; school kids banging on drums as they practice marching and more – before all this there are only the sounds of the birds and the waterfall.

Before dawn the ‘jungle’ is alive with bird songs and sounds. Throw in roosters crowing from all points; most of the howling dogs have gone to their days sleep by now. It is the most peaceful time around here in what is a very noisy reality.

I think there is no better way to wake up than to singing birds of many varieties. It is interesting how there are no discordinant choruses. Somehow the many tunes and pitches blend together as if Elmer Bernstein were conducting an Aron Copland score.

Buying in to the Mexico dream was a sound investment. Perhaps one day I will figure out how to get my computer setup to record the sounds for you – in the mean time you will just have to take my written word that it is a joyful noise. Nature’s interlude to the dawning of the day is very special around here. Stay Tuned!



Circle of Life
Tuesday May 06th 2008, 7:52 am
Filed under: Mexico, Opinion, Around Mexico

Today I am sad about a situation that has come up here in Poor Man’s Shangri-La. It is a story that happens many times every day around the world, but close to home it gets your attention.There are many heartfelt family situations in any poor neighborhood. Here for many learning about life is a sloooow curve ball.

Marvin came by yesterday. We hadn’t seen him for about six weeks. He has been moving. This turned into no small task as he began to unfold the layers of possessions he has collected in the four years in his apartment in Xalapa.

As always we were glad to see him. We usually sit on the Cascada Patio to talk away an hour or two. On our little stretch of dirt road most often a cast of people walk by as we are chatting away.

I call the end of our street the clown car because beyond our casita there are, I think, four homes. The number of people that live in that beyond is staggering. You know how the clowns just keep coming out of that little car – well you get the idea - the number of residence that live beyond Calypso Casita is large.

During yesterday’s parade of Hood members two or three back and forth trips were made by one neighbor we actually know from that beyond. This young girl was a friend of our sons when he was living here with us. She is about his age, seventeen; a pretty girl with a broad smile, intense eyes and a coy sweetness about her that could not go unnoticed.

She was attractive and beguiling enough for Julian’s mother to issue a warning about the dangers of pretty girls when he was fifteen and overprotected – can you over protect a fifteen year old boy?

In any case we like this girl very much. Her father is one of the more problematic alcoholic’s in the Hood. On more than one occasion I have seen her cradling her father’s head on the side of our dirt road caring for him, watching over him, rather than leave him to sleep it off.

On an occasion or two I would go out and ask if things were OK and if I could help – maybe help her get him down the 100 foot walk way to their little dirt floored casita. She would always decline help saying she would just sit there with him for a while adding that she couldn’t leave him there alone – a good daughter I think.

Yesterday as she passed by that several times, Anita and I couldn’t help but notice she has been putting on weight. The other day when I was catching images of the celebration in the street she was in one or two shots – I noticed then she was gaining weight – but this time parading back and forth in the fashion runway style she had created so many times before, it struck me and I remarked to Anita, “Do you think she is pregnant – looks that way to me.” A passing remark.

A few hours later after Anita returned from a visit with her girl friends. The report was yes indeed she is pregnant. Further reported the father in this situation is married with two children. He works in the US traveling back and forth – undocumented crossings no doubt. My heart sunk for that young girl.

Of course we asked each other how could this happen – it seems so out of character for this girl. She was seldom seen in the company of guys; always strutting around with her gal pals.

Here was a lovely, bright young girl who has been staying in school while many of her friends have quit. Anita had been encouraging her to stay in school. Not long ago Anita told her how proud she was that she was staying the course – she would graduate in June - now this curve in the road.

Hopefully she will make the two months to graduation – she is going to need all the room allotted in those robes; and all the support the people in the Hood can give. The hope we had for her is diminished as she faces single parenthood while still being a child herself.

Accountability for these situations by the hombre has been negligible. NOB this guy would be facing some serious legal and financial problems for a long time in the future. The fact that this girl is under 18 would play heavy for the guy. He would be financially responsible for the next twenty years or so and lucky if not ending up in jail – but not here in Mexico.

It is likely he will go along with his life without further problems from his dalliance. Meanwhile our sons friend and a bright spot in the Hood; this sweet young girl’s life will be forever changed. We can only hope for the best outcome. Today I am sad. Stay Tuned!



Gut Feeling Says It All
Monday May 05th 2008, 10:51 am
Filed under: Mexico, Opinion, Mexico-Travel

Usually not one lacking in words, I found a simple answer to how I feel about going to the United States in a few days – my gut says I am NOT looking forward to it.

Being a traveler by nature, any trip has almost always been exciting as it draws near – but this is more like thinking about going to the dentist.

We will find fun in the process I’m sure. I look forward to bringing back some things (already looking forward to the return). We will be happy to see some folks NOB, but that is looking on the bright side of a less than fun filled trip. Facing the gas prices alone will tarnish the experience.

Saturday our son flew across the pond to London from Los Angeles. He has been to Canada and of course Mexico with us – so he has been out of the Country but not off the Continent.

He reported experiencing racial profiling at the Los Angeles airport. He and two others were apparently signaled out from the entire plane load of pond jumpers.

He explained that his darker skin, mustache and beard facial hair more or less set him apart and suspect. He gained his mother’s beautiful brown skin and certainly doesn’t look like a white boy; add a Fu-Manchu - well you get the idea. Check that guy out!

It was interesting to hear the amount of detail that his inspection involved. They removed everything from his wallet checking business cards, and anything that might tie him to something unsavory or subversive. Of course he had to remove his shoes and be ‘wanded’ as well as a thorough inspection of his baggage and carry ons.

We raised the boy to understand he is different in so many ways. It was inconvenient but no problem as he patiently went through the investigation/inspection process. When he arrived in London he found them to be more suspecting then he had thought would occur. They wanted an address for where he was going and a written itinerary. He was to be met by a friend and didn’t actually have an address for where he would be staying in London – before he left he had set his iPhone to work internationally – so he was able to call his waiting friend and get an address.

Realistically it would seem some racial profiling is necessary to expedite travel – but it could be a problem to not be wary of the little old lady from Pasadena. Blue haired ladies have been drug mules over the years.

Tomorrow our son will take the tunnel under the channel to France; appropriately called the Chunnel. He has been looking forward to his journey more so than we are looking forward to ours – who wouldn’t? Stay Tuned!