Imagine belonging to an organic food club. You are there to pick-up your order of honey and some coconuts. Suddenly four uniformed men enter with guns; each weapon steadied with both hands pointed directly at you. They are there for some milk.

We will be posting some post celebrations photos over the next few days but we had to interrupt that reality for this bizarre tale.

In today’s Los Angeles times it is reported that an organic health food club was raided by four officers who with guns drawn “….fanned out across Rawesome Foods in Venice [California]” looking for unmarked jugs of raw milk. The officers “ordered the hemp-clad workers to put down their buckets of mashed coconut cream and to step away from the nuts.” (L.A. Times article here)

Apparently this private food club was skirting some necessary licensing. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration bans interstate sales of raw milk advising that both milk and honey should be pasteurized.

Our first thought was how this law would be accepted here in Mexico where every day we see hombres hauling metal milk vessels, dispensing their product with a liter container into the container of shoppers at their door steps. (Read More about our local milkman HERE.

Our local Milkman (ENLARGE)

Not wanting to argue the safety factors regarding raw milk, honey or cheese, I know there are issues.  The thing that really fries my veggie bacon is the attached video to the article that was taken by an in store camera – four guys with guns walking through food isles. This just seems over the top for a food licensing issue.

For the last five hundred years or so Mexican people have been drinking raw goats and cow’s milk. I am sure there have been problems – of this there is no doubt. However in today’s market here in Mexico you can go buy a liter of highly pasteurized milk displayed in non-cooled stacks on grocery shelves. Eleven pesos per liter is the going rate (about 82 cents U.S. a quart) or buy from the hombre with the raw milk container and liter serving cup for 6 pesos a liter (about 45 cents U.S. a quart).

In Venice, California the illegal raw milk, a vegetarian’s delight, goes for $8.59 per half-gallon. I am pretty sure if our milk men here in Xico knew they could get that instead of the 90 cents per quarts volume they get here; those hombres would be riding their cows and herding their goats to the frontera.

But really what is up with the guns? Does the FDA truly think those health food people might be protecting their raw milk stores with armed security or what?

The average U.S. citizen is scared to death to cross over their southern border to Mexico in fear of being caught in the cross fire of the drug cartels.

Your author is now afraid to head north to visit a health food store for fear that some officer with a two-fisted gun set to fire in the single action mode (gun cocked) might have an accidental discharge or worse yet just feeling the need to drop me in my tracks because of the danger I exhibit having a half-gallon of raw milk in my shopping cart.

We choose to remain here in dangerous Mexico where we can choose or not to spend 6 pesos on a liter of raw milk from the friendly hombre on horseback at our door.

Stay Tuned if you dare – we are south of the border.

The Celebration is winding down. The weather did not cooperate during the entire event. Yesterday it rained all day putting a damper on the biggest day which included the annual Bull Run on Hildalgo Street as well as Bull fights in the ring later in the afternoon.

The band Mariachi International of Guadalajara performed Wednesday night.

The Calypsos met up with Jürgen & Lulú at Rosy’s Zapateria to watch La Pamplonada or the running of the bulls down Main Street.

The bulls wandered rather aimlessly along the plywood and steel girded route. This year’s herd of 16 bulls seemed particularly large and intimidating. There were 10 hombres reported injured, apparently none seriously. Also reported that 25,000 people attended this event.

The Calypso couple enjoyed the celebrating with new and old friends; however La Pamplonada was less entertaining. We thought the throwing of 32 ounce Sol Beer cups (these probably had been refilled with water we are guessing) and other debris at the bulls, as well as kicking at the 16 animals as they lingered close to the fences was unnecessary and cruel. We are going to have to think seriously about returning to this event next year.

After the many hours of the bull run Jürgen & Lulú, our new friends met earlier in the week, and we walked down to El Campenario Restaurant for lunch. Later the rain continued as Anita and I walked all of Hildalgo towards home; no scooting around on Cruz Azul on this day. We bought an additional umbrella along the walk making it home with little more than wet feet.

The day before there was a massive collection of equestrians, more horses in one place than we have ever seen; more still than the Capitan Rodeo we attended on July 4^th. Looking up the street dotted along the entire route were white cowboy hats. The horse people paraded around Xico. The remnants of that parade were being washed away on Thursday – thankfully.

Wednesday night we were entertained in the park by the band Mariachi International of Guadalajara. This very polished group of hombres was professional and highly talented. They have been performing for more than ten years. This concert, one of the highlights of the week long celebration, was provided free by the city of Xico.

All in all in spite of the rainy weather the celebration was well attended and a fun time for the Calypsos.

Some photos from the Wednesday and Thursday:

El vaqueroito gets ready to load ‘em up and move ‘em out.

An Uppity Horse is not happy amongst all his brethren.

Vaqueras were represented as well as the Vaqueros.

No Surprise to see our landlord on his tall Stallion.

Another mujer beautifies the predominant caballeros.

Nothing but good guys – everyone wore their white hat.

Bull Run morning. The crowd waited patiently.

Cowgirls in high heels selling mora and torito libations -  wahoo!

The guapa Señora Calypso arrives at Rosy’s Zapateria. Let the party begin!

Our hostess Rosy surveys her three stories of guests from the calle.

Across the street this señorita spies my camera – nice pose. We are almost ready now!

Released bulls appear to be more interested in bashing each other than the humans.

Our amiga Rosy demonstrates the proper use of the bota bag! Viva Mexico!

Some of Rosy’s bota bag students – quick learners and lots of fun too!

Heels over head for bulls!

Crowd on their feet as someone gets pummeled down the way  – Bulls 16 Humans 0

Stay within the yellow lines and you will qualify for Handicapped Parking.

Meanwhile from Rosy’s secure Zapateria the party continued.

Moments after the last bull was corralled the calle filled  into the early morning hours!

We enjoyed the celebration which ends today – now for some rest from two weeks of celebrations. Life is never dull here in Mexico. Stay Tuned

We have been documented the Xico Festival in honor of the town’s patron saint Maria Magdalena.  If you have been following along you have read:

Here, here, here and here.

Nearly 1000 photos have been shot to bring you just a few from the event.  Not everyone sees the same thing in a photograph. Some will like a picture that others will not. But, I think people universally like to people watch. Here are some people watching photos I liked. Perhaps there will be some you enjoy. They all can be enlarged to see some nuances that otherwise might be missed.

I supplied a few comments as well along the way:

Good looking young people can not take a bad photo. (ENLARGE)

The family that clowns together stays together. (ENLARGE)

Sometimes it is about the colors. Men dressing like women – whatever floats your boat. (ENLARGE)

Paul an Englishman living in Xico. He lives in our Hood in Ursulo Galvan. (ENLARGE)

Sometimes it is about a moment and a glimpse. (ENLARGE)

Green hair will always get my attention. (ENLARGE)

Mexico is about family – Mothers and Daughters. (ENLARGE)

Cell phones in a public setting can be disturbing or just attention grabbing. (ENLARGE)

Our neighbor in the red hat with her friend and son – waiting out the rain.  (ENLARGE)

Did not like any of these? There are more to come. Give me another chance.  Please Stay Tuned!

For twenty days or so the men of Xico, Veracruz have been working towards the goal of strategically levitating a massive Arco of flowers mounted on thick long poles to be applied to the front the grand church of Santa Maria Magdalena at the top of Hildalgo Street.

In early July some of the townsmen went a far distance to gather the waxy shell like flowers, vines and other materials to be used to construct the  flowered arch over a couple of weeks. A lot of sacred pulque – a white milk like viscous alcoholic beverage made from the maguey plant, as well as beer and tequila have been consumed during all phases of construction and placement.

The pomp and circumstance of the ultimate conclusion of this effort enveloped Xico Wednesday.

The locals and many thousands of visitors were worked up into a frenzy by a fairly organized procession through the town of decorated toritos, bands with a variety of instrumentation, dancers, clowns and people dressed in brightly colored costumes, men dressed as women, children of all sizes, a cast of clergy, borochos, firework technicians, and of course Santa Maria Magdalena herself dressed in the finest brocade dress we have seen up to this point in the festivities.

The massive Arco (18 x 5 meters) and the parade of several thousand started at the west end of Xico at the Church of Cristo Rey. The procession traversed the town to the east end and then back up Hildalgo to the end, to the entrance of Santa Maria Magdalena Cathedral.

The Calypso couple wandered in and around this tumult with a certain immunity, at times as if invisible, from already being known to officials as a photo documenter seen at many city functions with my press pass – a Canon camera in my face.

It is one AM here in Xico as I sit at my desk punching keys on my computer.  I still hear children’s voices and the occasional burst of a volley of fireworks launching from toritos being run up and down the streets. And we are up at the northwest end of town – the quiet part.

North Americans might liken this event to the Rose Parade or Macy’s Parade or Mardi Gra; yet this has a distinctly Mexican flavor to it all. The pictures tell the story:

The Arco Undercover Being Made Ready to Move to Santa Maria Magdalene Cathedral

The Priest Blesses the Arco Prior to its Trip Around Xico

Some Parade Members Wait for the Arco to Head Down Through Xico

Colorful Costumed Dancers Entertained On Route

Don Antonio Meets up with Anita. He is the Octogenarian Godfather of Ursulo Galvan

Oh Those Hombres – Any Opportunity to Dress Up!

Some More Regular Hombres Carrying Big Sticks and Walking Not too Softly

The Arco Begins Its Journey

A Nina in Costume Wearing a Traditional  Xico Mask

At the Cathedral The People Wait – Our Young Neighbors from Ursulo Galvan

More of the Crowd – Wall to Wall People Converged on Xico

Mid Route the Rain Poured – The Toritos Were Covered and Moved Undercover

The Arco at the Base of the Cathedral Entry – Being Roped and Readied to Lift in Place

The Crowd Waited Patiently – Those with Cell Phones Used Them

Meanwhile the Incense was Kept Flowing as Maria Magdalena Looked On

Finally Lifting in Place – and Pulling Up From Above

Brave Souls Working on the Cathedral Ledges Pull the Arco In Place

Almost in Place. Jesus Waves to the Throng of People

There Were a LOT of Directors Waving and Shouting Commands

The Arco is in Place!

The Crowd Goes Wild Jumping Up and Down, Applauding and Yelling!

We captured more than 350 photos this day. Choosing a few was difficult. A long day of fun and fiesta for sure! Wednesday the party continues. Mariachis, bands, the callejoneada, and so much more. Stay Tuned!

Dateline: Monday night. Around 5 AM Monday morning the alfombra was started on Calle Hildalgo, Xico’s main street heading west into town. The Alfombras or dyed sawdust carpets can be traced back to the Mayans. They made these carpets with flowers for the kings to walk on in Mayan ceremonies. In the 16^th Century, the Catholic church changed the tradition of the alfombra by using colorful sawdust to create the carpets.

The Calypso couple didn’t make it at 5 AM; we did get there while the designs were still being laid out. It is kind of a paint-by-numbers activity, very choreographed as you will see in the photos. Entering into Xico you can look up the straight main-drag, Calle Hildalgo, all the way to where it ends at the entrance to Saint Maria Magdalena Church. The alfombra covers nearly the entire route. During construction the roadway is dotted with people placing the designs. The colorful patterns are a thing of beauty.

Later in the day around 3 in the afternoon it started raining. We were out documenting the Donacion de Toritos. This is more than 60 flame throwing, fire breathing, framed firework laden structures marched around town; finally they assemble at the big church at the west end of Hildalgo. All the toritos are blessed.

Each frame has a molded bull head and body center piece, a headdress if you will. This torito is draped over the head and shoulders of hombres that have the honor of running them up and down the streets – ultimately a well thought-out continuous fuse systematically ignites the hundreds of rockets assembled on the frames.

These ‘bulls’ can cost several thousand pesos running upwards to $1,000 U.S. dollars. If you have been reading along you saw some photos from last week’s Saint Carmen celebration. There were a total of six toritos at that celebration. We counted more than 60 for this celebration.

We have been taken hundreds of photos. Trying to pick a very few to show you readers is difficult. I wish we could show them all. Looking at the original photos full size, seeing the faces and the action of these events is great fun.

Here is a series of photos taken Monday morning of the alfombra project and later in the afternoon of the torito gathering.

Pictures:

As mentioned at 3 PM it started raining. It rained heavily off and on until about 8 PM.  Most of the alfombra was washed away, now nothing more than recorded history. After 10 PM there were workers restoring some of the carpet. It rained more near midnight but it was clear at 20 minutes to 1 AM at which point  the plaster divine Saint Magdalena  was marched along the carpet trail while a spectacular colorful fireworks display covered nearly the entire sky above. The town was near capacity with people pushing and shoving their way to the steps of the church.

Later today the arch will be set in front of the church. Stay Tuned!

It is official. At about 2 PM local time El Presidente of Xico Municipal Rogelio Soto Suárez and other dignitaries cut the ribbon to start things off. The Calypsos arrived to witness the Enmolada Event. A celebration official told us that Xico has more than 120 mole vendors.

El Presidente Rogelio Soto Suárez in purple stripes cuts the Ribbon with a little help from his friends.

Not to be upstaged the divine Maria Magdalena was paraded down Hildalgo in her latest dress of bright orange.

Originally reported as a giant enmolada contest, this actually was the longest table of consecutive enmolada dishes ever in one place. After the officials began making their way down the table trying mole laden enmoladas from restaurants and mole manufacturers, the public was allowed to grab a provided banana leaf and fork and sample to their hearts and stomachs content.  We sampled several varieties of enmoladas – all muy sabrosa!

From our perspective it would be hard to make a bad Xico mole drenched enmolada. We are regulars at Acamalin Restaurant and I have to say that their enmoladas held up well against the competition. This was a great way to start things off. When was the last time you were treated to a totally free gourmet feed. Gracias Xico!

Following the fine feed was a dance put on by young dancers in traditional costumes. A talented group of youngsters.

The fun is just beginning. There is certain pleasure in small town celebrations. More Tomorrow so Stay Tuned!

Dateline:  Friday, July 16th – today is the Fiestas de la Virgen Carmen. This is a very local celebration happening at the west end of Xico. The local capilla (church) is named for Saint Carmen.

The celebration has been pretty much non-stop since last weekend. Tomorrow is the first day of the next fiestas for our patron saint Maria Magdalena.

Thursday night was no slouch on the celebration front. Early in the day folks were gathered around Capilla Carmen. One of the several firework laden “toritos”   was being marched around the hood. Little children and big were teased with the expectation of the cataclysmic  celebration to come at nightfall. The torito would be fired up and unleashed to play havoc on our otherwise tranquil streets.

The  torito is a Latin America tradition. North of the border no one could afford the insurance that would be required if you could even get clearance to open the shoot for one of these bulls.

There is nothing quite like the excitement of one of these bad boy bulls thrusting and parrying side to side and up and down the street. Pictures simply do not tell the whole story of the energy and thrill. The sparkler and smoke ‘bull’ moves up and down the street when suddenly rockets launch unpredictably in any direction exploding with an impact you will feel in your chest and hear at ear drum shattering level;  an intense blast!

In the darkness that becomes blinding daylight for milliseconds people run every which way trying to locate themselves where the detonation is not. As the smoke clears you check to make sure your clothing is not smoldering or the clothes of those around you. I saw smoke rising off the hair of one curly headed hombre. This fun is not for the faint of heart I guarantee you.

Here are some photos from yesterday and last night’s action. The nighttime photographs were shot at 3200 ASA. Some will understand what that means; for the rest of you the photos will be a bit grainy. But, I think you can get a sense of the action:

The ‘Bull’ is loose! Thursday Morning ready to be paraded around the Hood. (ENLARGE)

Closeup: Each tube is a rocket ready to be launched! (ENLARGE)

The Artwork Says It All!  (ENLARGE)

Around 9:30 The Crowd Grows and Waits in Anticipation.

The Churros and Chips Sales are Brisk!  (ENLARGE)

About Ready to Begin the Bull Run! (ENLARGE)

The Crowd Disperses as the Bull Begins its Frenetic CHARGE! (ENLARGE)

OK We are Safe! This is Happening at the Other End of the Street.  (ENLARGE)

But Then the Bull Runs Our Way. (ENLARGE)

FLASH! (ENLARGE)

The Deafening Blast Defines Silence.   (ENLARGE)

The Final Act – The Slow Rising Star. (ENLARGE)

The crowd returned to the vending stands while waiting for the next Bull to be released.

Tonight two more Bulls will run the street for the finale.

In a day parade last July we counted more than 64 Toritos that were set-off during the celebration that starts tomorrow- whew!  We will be here on the scene to report – so Stay Tuned!

You must be particularly blessed to have a real live mariachi band in your cocina (kitchen).

Yesterday was an on again and off  again rainy day. The Calypso couple managed to scoot into Coatepec for supplies and return to Xico dry as a bone. Two blocks and around the corner from our casita the sawdust artists were laying out a beautiful carpet protected by blocks of yellow ribbon supported by standards decorated with flowers.

Within a short time Mother Nature had her say and washed it all away; perhaps she is jealous. The carpets are like a beautiful sunset – you have to catch them while you can – soon they will go as fast as they came in our rainforest climate.

Because we are in a rainforest the people are undaunted by a little rain – or even a lot. Life goes on as does the partying!

On tap yesterday was many confirmation celebrations. The streets were adorned with little girls in clean white dresses and shiny black shoes – most sported ribbons in the hair. They were excited; only remaining calm enough to keep their dresses clean. Colorful flags, balloons and decorated front rooms opened to the street were on every block.

And the Saint Carmen Celebration continued. In the same location as the mole party the night before the street was cornered off. Rain protecting tarps were hung high over tables of food and celebrators. If you had an “E-Ticket” you could sit inside where the fortunate few were entertained by a terrific Mariachi Band.

Now being a Güero (a Caucasian or in this case a “White-Boy”) has few advantages in Mexico – but this day we were invited in. The Canon is a press pass of sorts in our Hood. . We did take photos with promise of a disc full for the majordomos’ (stewards of the Celebration).

The mariachi band was absolutely spectacular! The hardened cement room made for bright and sonorific acoustics. The band played 45 minutes plus (a sets worth as I remember it from my music days). Dancing and celebrating lasted well beyond the band.

The arch was raised in front  of Capilla Saint Carmen (Stay Tuned tomorrow for those photos)

Some of the photos that will go on the CD:

The last photo shows another band in the street – sort of undercover – and the bands played on….

This was just from Wednesday. Nine more days left of Xico Celebrations. Plenty of time to get here. Stay Tuned!

What is the best way to get a job done? Throw a party!

Like a 19^th century country barn raising where a community comes together to assemble a barn for one or more of its households, the preparations for a Mexican celebration often turns into a community party.

In our Hood at the northwest end of the town of Xico, Veracruz we had just such an event last night. The Calypsos were invited by our Mexican neighbors to a Holy Mole Party!

Xiquena Mole is one of Xico’s claims to fame. This chocolaty, dark brown, rich sauce is a taste bud exploding delight! In the previous entry we mentioned our passion for the enmolada dish (the queso version – it also comes in chicken, pork and beef). In three days there will be the BIG enmolada contest – Stay Tuned for that.

Xico mole is very original and has a unique flavor. Among its ingredients can be found:

Chocolate (brown or yellow)  Almendras, Nuts, Peanuts, Grapes, Raisins,  Prunes, Anise, Piñón nuts, Apples, Cinnamon sticks, Onions, Garlic, Lard, Plátano, Mulato and Ancho chile, Sesame, Bread and more. It is sometimes made with beef pieces.

Once the ingredients, in this case grandma’s secret recipe, are placed in this HUGE kettle they are heated with a blowtorch like propane burner. Often these kettles are wood fired. I am told the propane gas is easier to control and actually enables less cooking time.

A team of hombres stirs the potion with small canoe paddles. This required-constant-stirring goes on for more than four hours (and they prepared three batches this long day).

The hombres stir until their arms burn; then the next team man’s the paddles. The crew at rest enjoys beer, mora, eats and social fun while regaining strength in their arms for the next shift of manning the paddles.

The girls are not left out of the stirring fun. Two steady the pot to keep it from being moved by the paddle action.

Anita and I took a turn at paddle pushing and pulling. The thick viscosity of the mole mixture will surely put your arm muscles to test. We didn’t last long.

Since the mole party was just a few blocks from our casa we went back and forth a few times during the four and half hours, we joined in on the last batch preparation. The Calypso couple contributed to the libations and lively conversation. In the last hour or so spooned samples are given to the ingredient ladies who decide on taste and additional cooking time requirements.

Man power changed during our visits. You can imagine that towards the end, the party aspect gets more rousing as the thick mole bubbles to a smooth consistency and libations have been amply imbibed.

Now completely cooked, the ladies ladle the creamy sauce into smaller big pots.

Finally a tradition for the participants is to take tortillas and wipe the big kettle clean, enjoying the hot mole to the last drop, and producing a clean kettle.

We were asked to take photos by our Bird dog amigo Jorge Cervantes. We have been friends for more than five years. At first everyone was quite shy – but in typical Mexican fashion once the camera gets going and a few shots are played back to the crowd almost everyone wants their picture taken. I will let the pictures do the rest of the talking.

Mixing Mole

The Mujeres Steady the Kettle

Many Hours into the Stirring

The Ninos (Children) Love to be Photographed

Anita is Invited to have a Little Drink

Mayordoma and Family Member

Our New Amigo Don Franco Takes a Break

Mole is Ladled into Pots

Good to the Last Tortilla Wiping!

Today Mole will be Served to more than 1000 people – Olé  Mole!

A good neighborly time was had by all. We made some new friends; got home late, content, with scrumptious mole and libations in our bellies. These ingredients inspired sweet dreams. Stay Tuned!

This is a Bi-Centennial year for Mexico – that big bash remains to be experienced. Bi-Centennial year aside without question the next two weeks or so are the most celebratory of the year here in the Xico area. This week up at our end of town we are celebrating Saint Carmen.

Saint Carmen is none other than the Mother of Jesus, Mary. She goes by several names here in Mexico.

Her feast day is July 16^th although the partying has been going on since last weekend. The fireworks and processions are ongoing daily.

Starting on the day following Saint Carmen’s Feast Day is the big tamale of local celebrations El Festejo de la Xiqueñada. Anita and I made a point of returning to Xico before this event – week long partying, great fun! You can read about last years experience of the event here (CLICK and scan down to several entries).

We had dinner at El Campanario restaurant last night with our friend from New Orleans Scott. He is rushing out of town just before all the fun really begins. We tried to reason with him to not leave until after the Xiqueñada Celebration.

The celebration is about having lots of fun with bull fights, a running of the bulls on Hildalgo street, endless food and drink, dancing, fireworks, carnival rides, and a sawdust carpet running the entire length of Hildalgo street thrown in. It is reported that last year 600,000 people attended with more expected this year.

Last years La Pamplonada or the running of the bulls – July 22, 2009

We will have to see if we were able to persuade Scott to stay. For the rest of you here is my version of the scheduled of events:

Already active the local men have  traveled near Pueblo, Mexico to gather the white flowers used in the making of huge arches that will be placed strategically at the entrance of some churches.  The hombres have been enjoying barbacoa feeds with lots of caña de pulcay and atole drinks after gathering the flowers and during the construction of the archs.

Six mayordomos ( selected leading families in the community) heading up the organization of pagan and religious festivities are receiving  donations of clothing for the near life size plaster statue of Mary Magdalene that is paraded through town; the reformed harlot being the towns patron saint. The elegant dresses for the statue are changed each day during the celebration week.

The Church of María Magdalena has an entire museum dedicated to these costumes. Hundreds of dresses that have been donated over the years are displayed here. You can visit it behind the grand church. To donate a dress is quite an honor – there is an actual waiting list.

The homes of the mayordomos (the festival stewards) are decorated with eye-catching multi-colored flags indicating where they live. Helpers and followers are treated to food and drink.

To kick things off, new to the festivities this year, in the recently completed newly designed park there will be a contest for the largest enmolada. On the 17^th restaurateurs and other locals involved with the making and selling of Xico’s famous mole will participate in preparing huge enmoladas. These are a particular favorites of the Calypso’s.

On the 18^th the festival continues with all the street side eateries and cantinas.  Bull fights will be held at the Xico arena. There are colorful notices all over town of that Impending event.

The full length of the town colorful sawdust carpet will be drawn and a grand fireworks display will happen on the 19^th with continued partying.

The 20^th will see the procession of the arch. It will be placed in front of the Chapel of Cristo Rey (Christ the King) and an ‘American Rodeo’. Mariachis will sing to Mary Magdalene and the party continues culminating on July 22^nd which includes la Pamplonada or the running of the bulls down our main street (see above photo) . It is a wrap on the 23^rd.

If you are in our area come and PARTY DOWN with us! Stay Tuned!