At about 6 AM a wood fire is started in the long spacious masonry oven of La Imperial Panaderia and Reposteria (Bakery and Confectionery). Not early by U.S. bakery standards, Mexican bakeries are not likely to have something hot out of the oven by 6 AM; more likely you will get a hot bun around 11 AM.
The Front of La Imperial
Friday we visited the Panaderia about 9:30 AM. Señor Francisco Colorado Valdivia’s two sons Arsenio and Pedro as well as Tio (Uncle) Cristiano were busy preparing pan in various shapes; some containing queso (cheese), some in cupcake forms, some with sugar, sandwich muffins, and of course bread rolls. No room or time for loafing here.
Two Sons and Uncle Hard at Work
For more than 25 years the Valdivias have been making baked goods for the Xico area. If you drive north up Javier Mina past the Cathedral San Jose at the end of the road on the left is La Imperial. This bakery is just three blocks from our casita. We are frequent visitors.
At the Hearth of the Matter
The showroom is small. Baked goods are efficiently displayed. One needs to get in the store between noon and four to get a good selection; the Valdivia’s baked goods go fast. Additionally, their product is sold by about 15 tiendas in Xico including a few in Ursulo Galvan.Señor Valdivia personally delivers baskets of pan to the tiendas.
The Showroom
Moving to the baking area, the first thing that catches your eye is the wood fired oven. The fire within me burns bright for these ovens. Most wood ovens in Mexico are of the black variety. Black ovens are heated by burning wood in a chamber and the food is cooked in that same chamber alongside the fire while it is still going, or in the heated chamber after the fire and coals have been swept out. In our bakeries case the pastries bake while the flames smolder. We noted wood being added while the baking process was going on.
Getting Fired Up – Almost Ready to Bake
The wood used for the oven is exclusively coffee plant limbs. The thin pieces of wood are delivered by a contracted supplier. Arsenio made a point of telling us the wood is acquired legally.
These ‘Viking ship’ like Baking Paddles are Amazing
Like much of Mexico’s commercial kitchens you will not find OSHA approved conditions. We hesitated to ask about health inspections as this time tested establishment’s products speak for themselves, that we are guessing is the standard of measure. We have enjoyed a lot of La Imperial’s products with no adverse affects and a lot of pleasure.
The oven with its narrow opening goes back deep within; note the long oar like poles used to place pastry into the 26 tray capacity chamber. We watched Pedro skillfully place and occasionally turn the trays. Baking time is short at about ten minutes for most of the 35 or so varieties of baked goods. Señor Valdivia explained the cooking chamber of the masonry oven gets to as much as 220 degrees Centigrade or 428 degrees Fahrenheit. A mere one and a half hours of baking time completes the daily production.
Señor Francisco Colorado Valdivia
There are no proofing cabinets or refrigeration boxes. Two floor mixers, a dough cutter and a couple of triple beam scales are the total compliment of equipment other than a lot of trays and some baskets.
We watched Arsenio remove a hot rectangular pan containing oil with some folded well used cardboard ‘hot pads’. Moving the hot smoking pan from the oven to the work table where pastry was dipped and then swiftly twisted to form rings of dough.
Mexican Hot Pads
Arsenio Doing the Twist
Freshly Baked Goods Right Out of the Oven
By 11:30 Monday through Saturday Mexican pan is ready to sell. As they say in the commercial, “Nothing says lovin’ like something from the oven!” If you are in our area the trip up to La Imperial Panaderia is worth a visit. Bring your purchase three blocks further to our casa and enjoy an espresso cafecito with the Calypsos. Stay Tuned!
Mordita or little bite in Spanish is the process of Mexican traffic police (transito policía) trumping up a traffic violation to extort funds from foreigners or even their own. It is direct deposit; money changes hands from innocent extranjeros (foreigners) to corrupt police.
The frightened ‘violator’ will not receive a ticket. Only a paid-for-warning. Often the process is performed very surreptitiously. The reason for the stealthy process is to avoid the blind eye of Mexican justice which claims this ongoing holdup is illegal.
Saturday during the brief sunny part we were returning from a scooter ride to Coatepec where we bought some custom made bread, designer cheese and some home-made vegetable tamales. Just past the police station that is about mid distance between Coatepec and Xico we came up behind a small black and white transito vehicle. (Not the one shown below)
A Traffic Police Vehicle (more typical than the beater we encountered)
A transito officer, be he/they on foot, riding a motorcycle or in car, is the most likely person(s) to stop foreigners of any kind to give traffic citations; more often looking to have the frightened foreigner buy him/them lunch or maybe a new dress for the wife.
When we came upon the transito vehicle I decided to stay behind him avoiding visibility. We were in no hurry enjoying the bit of sun and verdant roadway. This was quite a concession, the dilapidated police vehicle was smoking quite badly.
Not far along the route the transito clunker slowed; from the driver’s side window the uniformed officer motioned for us to go around – which we did.
Soon he caught back up with us driving close to our rear. The road essentially runs out at the entrance to Xico. It is necessary to take a right turn onto a different road going into town. At this point he turned on his P.A. system announcing that we should pull over. Considering the smoke and dilapidated condition of the little policia car, I was surprised he had public address system technology. We pulled to the side and stopped.
Since we were traveling to and from Xico we had helmets on (it’s a law, occasionally); I often do not wear headgear when just scooting around Xico. We were going the speed limit and otherwise obeying all the rules – so it was pretty much a given these boys were ready for lunch. We were going to buy it for them, so they thought.
Being residents and knowing full well the routine we were not about to fork over pesos for these two characters. The sooner we made this clear the sooner we would be moving along.
If you are riding a vehicle with less 150 cc’s of engine displacement you are not required to have that vehicle registered and plated (con placa) – that is the law. Unfortunately for the officers we knew this. They were not going to be eating any time soon on our pesos – the Calypso couple was confident about that.
Anita walked up to the officer now standing street side. She stood a head taller than the officer. His partner scurried into a package store on the corner – presumably already selecting food items that he thought we were buying – guess again hombre.
The officer pointed to our scooters rear asking where our license plate was.
Anita’s first thought was to redress this fellow for driving a car smoking like it was burning coal as a fuel source. She thought better and went right into explaining that we live here in Xico and we know there are many scooters and the like sans license plates.
Now the hungry officer was not sure we were going to buck his misguided authority. He went right into a spiel about how this was true in Xico but not in Coatepec.
Still mounted on the scooter I chimed in saying we have been driving this scooter in Coatepec for two years. Anita added that we see many, many non-plated scooters and four-wheelers in Coatepec; furthermore she cited the 150 cc rule to him.
At this point I think we all knew there was not going to be any pesos exchanging manos. Now the officer needed to figure out how to get out of this gracefully – and with his manhood intact. He looked up into Anita’s eyes and then over to me still sitting on the scooter. He asked for my driver’s license. This totally beside the point now; but it provided him time to think this out.
We have written before that we do not carry our actual driver’s license, rather a reasonable facsimile copy, laminated and semi-authentic looking. The transito officer looked over my license. I handed Anita my business card to give to him. The card indicates I am a writer for Global Post .com. I wanted him to know we could write about this experience letting others know about his effort to extort money from us. He looked at this card more carefully than the license. It has the word “escritor” (writer) on it, and the Global Post insignia.
We were done. He returned my license and business card. I told him to keep the card so he would remember us – might even want to log-in and visit the Blog
With one quiet glance and a slow-spreading smile exchanged between Anita and me, we shared recognition and understanding, and the power of that brief meeting was more satisfying than I can effectively describe. It was a perfect sunny moment. We rode on.
We arrived home just ahead of the afternoon rain. It has rained every day since we have returned from the United States three weeks ago – every day. Rain does not impede life what so ever in the tropics.
If you choose Mexico you can be sure that soon enough you will find comfort even with the tiresome process of mordida. There are not many that can look upon their lives and realize they have everything they could ever wish for, and then some extra for the dipping. Each morning when I wake, I whisper a silent prayer of gratitude that I am one of them. Gracias, gracias, gracias….
Life is good! Life is about attitude, stay positive and Stay Tuned!
The Celebration is winding down. The weather did not cooperate during the entire event. Yesterday it rained all day putting a damper on the biggest day which included the annual Bull Run on Hildalgo Street as well as Bull fights in the ring later in the afternoon.
The band Mariachi International of Guadalajara performed Wednesday night.
The Calypsos met up with Jürgen & Lulú at Rosy’s Zapateria to watch La Pamplonada or the running of the bulls down Main Street.
The bulls wandered rather aimlessly along the plywood and steel girded route. This year’s herd of 16 bulls seemed particularly large and intimidating. There were 10 hombres reported injured, apparently none seriously. Also reported that 25,000 people attended this event.
The Calypso couple enjoyed the celebrating with new and old friends; however La Pamplonada was less entertaining. We thought the throwing of 32 ounce Sol Beer cups (these probably had been refilled with water we are guessing) and other debris at the bulls, as well as kicking at the 16 animals as they lingered close to the fences was unnecessary and cruel. We are going to have to think seriously about returning to this event next year.
After the many hours of the bull run Jürgen & Lulú, our new friends met earlier in the week, and we walked down to El Campenario Restaurant for lunch. Later the rain continued as Anita and I walked all of Hildalgo towards home; no scooting around on Cruz Azul on this day. We bought an additional umbrella along the walk making it home with little more than wet feet.
The day before there was a massive collection of equestrians, more horses in one place than we have ever seen; more still than the Capitan Rodeo we attended on July 4th. Looking up the street dotted along the entire route were white cowboy hats. The horse people paraded around Xico. The remnants of that parade were being washed away on Thursday – thankfully.
Wednesday night we were entertained in the park by the band Mariachi International of Guadalajara. This very polished group of hombres was professional and highly talented. They have been performing for more than ten years. This concert, one of the highlights of the week long celebration, was provided free by the city of Xico.
All in all in spite of the rainy weather the celebration was well attended and a fun time for the Calypsos.
Some photos from the Wednesday and Thursday:
El vaqueroito gets ready to load ‘em up and move ‘em out.
An Uppity Horse is not happy amongst all his brethren.
Vaqueras were represented as well as the Vaqueros.
No Surprise to see our landlord on his tall Stallion.
Another mujer beautifies the predominant caballeros.
Nothing but good guys – everyone wore their white hat.
Bull Run morning. The crowd waited patiently.
Cowgirls in high heels selling mora and torito libations - wahoo!
The guapa Señora Calypso arrives at Rosy’s Zapateria. Let the party begin!
Our hostess Rosy surveys her three stories of guests from the calle.
Across the street this señorita spies my camera – nice pose. We are almost ready now!
Released bulls appear to be more interested in bashing each other than the humans.
Our amiga Rosy demonstrates the proper use of the bota bag! Viva Mexico!
Some of Rosy’s bota bag students – quick learners and lots of fun too!
Heels over head for bulls!
Crowd on their feet as someone gets pummeled down the way – Bulls 16 Humans 0
Stay within the yellow lines and you will qualify for Handicapped Parking.
Meanwhile from Rosy’s secure Zapateria the party continued.
Moments after the last bull was corralled the calle filled into the early morning hours!
We enjoyed the celebration which ends today – now for some rest from two weeks of celebrations. Life is never dull here in Mexico. Stay Tuned
For twenty days or so the men of Xico, Veracruz have been working towards the goal of strategically levitating a massive Arco of flowers mounted on thick long poles to be applied to the front the grand church of Santa Maria Magdalena at the top of Hildalgo Street.
In early July some of the townsmen went a far distance to gather the waxy shell like flowers, vines and other materials to be used to construct the flowered arch over a couple of weeks. A lot of sacred pulque – a white milk like viscous alcoholic beverage made from the maguey plant, as well as beer and tequila have been consumed during all phases of construction and placement.
The pomp and circumstance of the ultimate conclusion of this effort enveloped Xico Wednesday.
The locals and many thousands of visitors were worked up into a frenzy by a fairly organized procession through the town of decorated toritos, bands with a variety of instrumentation, dancers, clowns and people dressed in brightly colored costumes, men dressed as women, children of all sizes, a cast of clergy, borochos, firework technicians, and of course Santa Maria Magdalena herself dressed in the finest brocade dress we have seen up to this point in the festivities.
The massive Arco (18 x 5 meters) and the parade of several thousand started at the west end of Xico at the Church of Cristo Rey. The procession traversed the town to the east end and then back up Hildalgo to the end, to the entrance of Santa Maria Magdalena Cathedral.
The Calypso couple wandered in and around this tumult with a certain immunity, at times as if invisible, from already being known to officials as a photo documenter seen at many city functions with my press pass – a Canon camera in my face.
It is one AM here in Xico as I sit at my desk punching keys on my computer. I still hear children’s voices and the occasional burst of a volley of fireworks launching from toritos being run up and down the streets. And we are up at the northwest end of town – the quiet part.
North Americans might liken this event to the Rose Parade or Macy’s Parade or Mardi Gra; yet this has a distinctly Mexican flavor to it all. The pictures tell the story:
The Arco Undercover Being Made Ready to Move to Santa Maria Magdalene Cathedral
The Priest Blesses the Arco Prior to its Trip Around Xico
Some Parade Members Wait for the Arco to Head Down Through Xico
Colorful Costumed Dancers Entertained On Route
Don Antonio Meets up with Anita. He is the Octogenarian Godfather of Ursulo Galvan
Oh Those Hombres – Any Opportunity to Dress Up!
Some More Regular Hombres Carrying Big Sticks and Walking Not too Softly
The Arco Begins Its Journey
A Nina in Costume Wearing a Traditional Xico Mask
At the Cathedral The People Wait – Our Young Neighbors from Ursulo Galvan
More of the Crowd – Wall to Wall People Converged on Xico
Mid Route the Rain Poured – The Toritos Were Covered and Moved Undercover
The Arco at the Base of the Cathedral Entry – Being Roped and Readied to Lift in Place
The Crowd Waited Patiently – Those with Cell Phones Used Them
Meanwhile the Incense was Kept Flowing as Maria Magdalena Looked On
Finally Lifting in Place – and Pulling Up From Above
Brave Souls Working on the Cathedral Ledges Pull the Arco In Place
Almost in Place. Jesus Waves to the Throng of People
There Were a LOT of Directors Waving and Shouting Commands
The Arco is in Place!
The Crowd Goes Wild Jumping Up and Down, Applauding and Yelling!
We captured more than 350 photos this day. Choosing a few was difficult. A long day of fun and fiesta for sure! Wednesday the party continues. Mariachis, bands,the callejoneada, and so much more. Stay Tuned!
You must be particularly blessed to have a real live mariachi band in your cocina (kitchen).
Yesterday was an on again and off again rainy day. The Calypso couple managed to scoot into Coatepec for supplies and return to Xico dry as a bone. Two blocks and around the corner from our casita the sawdust artists were laying out a beautiful carpet protected by blocks of yellow ribbon supported by standards decorated with flowers.
Within a short time Mother Nature had her say and washed it all away; perhaps she is jealous. The carpets are like a beautiful sunset – you have to catch them while you can – soon they will go as fast as they came in our rainforest climate.
Because we are in a rainforest the people are undaunted by a little rain – or even a lot. Life goes on as does the partying!
On tap yesterday was many confirmation celebrations. The streets were adorned with little girls in clean white dresses and shiny black shoes – most sported ribbons in the hair. They were excited; only remaining calm enough to keep their dresses clean. Colorful flags, balloons and decorated front rooms opened to the street were on every block.
And the Saint Carmen Celebration continued. In the same location as the mole party the night before the street was cornered off. Rain protecting tarps were hung high over tables of food and celebrators. If you had an “E-Ticket” you could sit inside where the fortunate few were entertained by a terrific Mariachi Band.
Now being a Güero (a Caucasian or in this case a “White-Boy”) has few advantages in Mexico – but this day we were invited in. The Canon is a press pass of sorts in our Hood. . We did take photos with promise of a disc full for the majordomos’ (stewards of the Celebration).
The mariachi band was absolutely spectacular! The hardened cement room made for bright and sonorific acoustics. The band played 45 minutes plus (a sets worth as I remember it from my music days). Dancing and celebrating lasted well beyond the band.
The arch was raised in front of Capilla Saint Carmen (Stay Tuned tomorrow for those photos)
Some of the photos that will go on the CD:
The last photo shows another band in the street – sort of undercover – and the bands played on….
This was just from Wednesday. Nine more days left of Xico Celebrations. Plenty of time to get here. Stay Tuned!
What is the best way to get a job done? Throw a party!
Like a 19th century country barn raising where a community comes together to assemble a barn for one or more of its households, the preparations for a Mexican celebration often turns into a community party.
In our Hood at the northwest end of the town of Xico, Veracruz we had just such an event last night. The Calypsos were invited by our Mexican neighbors to a Holy Mole Party!
Xiquena Mole is one of Xico’s claims to fame. This chocolaty, dark brown, rich sauce is a taste bud exploding delight! In the previous entry we mentioned our passion for the enmolada dish (the queso version – it also comes in chicken, pork and beef). In three days there will be the BIG enmolada contest – Stay Tuned for that.
Xico mole is very original and has a unique flavor. Among its ingredients can be found:
Chocolate (brown or yellow) Almendras, Nuts, Peanuts, Grapes, Raisins, Prunes, Anise, Piñón nuts, Apples, Cinnamon sticks, Onions, Garlic, Lard, Plátano, Mulato and Ancho chile, Sesame, Bread and more. It is sometimes made with beef pieces.
Once the ingredients, in this case grandma’s secret recipe, are placed in this HUGE kettle they are heated with a blowtorch like propane burner. Often these kettles are wood fired. I am told the propane gas is easier to control and actually enables less cooking time.
A team of hombres stirs the potion with small canoe paddles. This required-constant-stirring goes on for more than four hours (and they prepared three batches this long day).
The hombres stir until their arms burn; then the next team man’s the paddles. The crew at rest enjoys beer, mora, eats and social fun while regaining strength in their arms for the next shift of manning the paddles.
The girls are not left out of the stirring fun. Two steady the pot to keep it from being moved by the paddle action.
Anita and I took a turn at paddle pushing and pulling. The thick viscosity of the mole mixture will surely put your arm muscles to test. We didn’t last long.
Since the mole party was just a few blocks from our casa we went back and forth a few times during the four and half hours, we joined in on the last batch preparation. The Calypso couple contributed to the libations and lively conversation. In the last hour or so spooned samples are given to the ingredient ladies who decide on taste and additional cooking time requirements.
Man power changed during our visits. You can imagine that towards the end, the party aspect gets more rousing as the thick mole bubbles to a smooth consistency and libations have been amply imbibed.
Now completely cooked, the ladies ladle the creamy sauce into smaller big pots.
Finally a tradition for the participants is to take tortillas and wipe the big kettle clean, enjoying the hot mole to the last drop, and producing a clean kettle.
We were asked to take photos by our Bird dog amigo Jorge Cervantes. We have been friends for more than five years. At first everyone was quite shy – but in typical Mexican fashion once the camera gets going and a few shots are played back to the crowd almost everyone wants their picture taken. I will let the pictures do the rest of the talking.
Mixing Mole
The Mujeres Steady the Kettle
Many Hours into the Stirring
The Ninos (Children) Love to be Photographed
Anita is Invited to have a Little Drink
Mayordoma and Family Member
Our New Amigo Don Franco Takes a Break
Mole is Ladled into Pots
Good to the Last Tortilla Wiping!
Today Mole will be Served to more than 1000 people – Olé Mole!
A good neighborly time was had by all. We made some new friends; got home late, content, with scrumptious mole and libations in our bellies. These ingredients inspired sweet dreams. Stay Tuned!
This is a Bi-Centennial year for Mexico – that big bash remains to be experienced. Bi-Centennial year aside without question the next two weeks or so are the most celebratory of the year here in the Xico area. This week up at our end of town we are celebrating Saint Carmen.
Saint Carmen is none other than the Mother of Jesus, Mary. She goes by several names here in Mexico.
Her feast day is July 16th although the partying has been going on since last weekend. The fireworks and processions are ongoing daily.
Starting on the day following Saint Carmen’s Feast Day is the big tamale of local celebrations El Festejo de la Xiqueñada.Anita and I made a point of returning to Xico before this event – week long partying, great fun! You can read about last years experience of the event here (CLICK and scan down to several entries).
We had dinner at El Campanario restaurant last night with our friend from New Orleans Scott. He is rushing out of town just before all the fun really begins. We tried to reason with him to not leave until after the Xiqueñada Celebration.
The celebration is about having lots of fun with bull fights, a running of the bulls on Hildalgo street, endless food and drink, dancing, fireworks, carnival rides, and a sawdust carpet running the entire length of Hildalgo street thrown in. It is reported that last year 600,000 people attended with more expected this year.
Last years La Pamplonada or the running of the bulls – July 22, 2009
We will have to see if we were able to persuade Scott to stay. For the rest of you here is my version of the scheduled of events:
Already active the local men have traveled near Pueblo, Mexico to gather the white flowers used in the making of huge arches that will be placed strategically at the entrance of some churches. The hombres have been enjoying barbacoa feeds with lots of caña de pulcay and atole drinks after gathering the flowers and during the construction of the archs.
Six mayordomos ( selected leading families in the community) heading up the organization of pagan and religious festivities are receiving donations of clothing for the near life size plaster statue of Mary Magdalene that is paraded through town; the reformed harlot being the towns patron saint. The elegant dresses for the statue are changed each day during the celebration week.
The Church of María Magdalena has an entire museum dedicated to these costumes. Hundreds of dresses that have been donated over the years are displayed here. You can visit it behind the grand church. To donate a dress is quite an honor – there is an actual waiting list.
The homes of the mayordomos (the festival stewards) are decorated with eye-catching multi-colored flags indicating where they live. Helpers and followers are treated to food and drink.
To kick things off, new to the festivities this year, in the recently completed newly designed park there will be a contest for the largestenmolada. On the 17th restaurateurs and other locals involved with the making and selling of Xico’s famous mole will participate in preparing huge enmoladas. These are a particular favorites of the Calypso’s.
On the 18th the festival continues with all the street side eateries and cantinas. Bull fights will be held at the Xico arena. There are colorful notices all over town of that Impending event.
The full length of the town colorful sawdust carpet will be drawn and a grand fireworks display will happen on the 19th with continued partying.
The 20th will see the procession of the arch. It will be placed in front of the Chapel of Cristo Rey (Christ the King) and an ‘American Rodeo’. Mariachis will sing to Mary Magdalene and the party continues culminating on July 22nd which includes la Pamplonada or the running of the bulls down our main street (see above photo) . It is a wrap on the 23rd.
If you are in our area come and PARTY DOWN with us! Stay Tuned!
Vacation season is coming fast. Some of you may plan on a trip to Mexico. Here in Mexico we have a situation called “Mordida” (bite). It has been going on a long time in this country and doesn’t look to be ending any time soon. Mordida is essentially giving a ‘payoff’ to avoid a more problematic traffic ticket.
If you have actually perpetrated a traffic infraction mordida might be called expedient justice. In this instance it is efficient and usually will cost less than a comparable infraction in the United States; if nothing else it will not have an effect on your insurance and driving record.
Mordida fees generally run from 50 pesos to as much as 1500 pesos. It is mostly administered with threatening actions about how you will pay more, be delayed or possibly have your vehicle impounded etc. So that when you do give up a couple 500 pesos notes you will go away relieved, until you have time to stew on it.
Understand that the penalty fee is negotiable. The more intestinal fortitude you possess the less you will pay. This does not mean the one that shouts the loudest wins – quite the contrary. You must remain calm and polite at all times. You can be firm about your stand but this must be done in a respectable manner. In Mexico generally there will be no gain in exhibiting an upset demeanor – none.
We advise not carrying much money in your wallet with your license. DO NOT flash a lot of cash – this is their money in your possession. We usually have a 50 peso and two 100 peso notes – no more. If you don’t have pesos yet then a five and two tens.
We use a laminated copy of our actual driver’s license – not the original. It is in a cheap wallet with a few expired credit cards and a temporary membership card to AARP. A few photos are a nice touch – but if they take your wallet it won’t be missed. I have heard of a wallet being held – but have not experienced this.
On one occasion I was asked if the license I provided was an original. I explained it was a copy as I didn’t want to lose the original – nothing further was said on that. Do not lie to them.
There are a few things you can do to lessen the mordida fee or have it expunged all together. The first I have brought up several times. If we are motioned to pull over by a uniformed person standing next to or in the street, we ignore them and continue driving. Of course this takes great courage – ignoring a police officer’s attempt to detain you.
When you spot ahead one of these uniformed bandits, avoid eye contact as you approach and pass them. This will substantiate your story if need be.
We have done this more than a dozen times and NEVER have we been chased down. If we do get sopped by an officer with transportation – the plan is simple – we didn’t see the person motioning to us to pull over – simple. Again, we have never been tracked down and we have driven past no less than 12 attempts to pull us over.
If you have been here a while you have heard all that. Here is some additional information:
There is a public workers union office specifically charged with investigating police matters and dismissing corrupt officials. Sindicatura is the name of the outfit. That is: SEEN-DEE-KAH-TOO-RA. Regardless of the bribing officer’s ability to understand your Spanish or English, the officer will understand this word. Declaring the word is like driving a stake into Count Dracula’s heart. Actually calling in the Sindicatura group is like notifying ‘Internal Affairs’.
The mere mention of Sindicatura will most likely end any further effort to relieve you of your money.
If the officer offers the option of going to the Police Station when you know you have not broken some driving law – tell the officer you do want to go to talk to Juez Califvador (WHES CAL-EEF-AH-DOR). This is a qualifying judge. This person will determine whether the fine amount and accused violation(s) is reasonable and appropriate.
Using either of these two words and methods will most often be perceived as too much trouble. You will be kindly told to move on.
Others have suggested having a camera handy to capture a photo of the officer. Although I have yet to try to grab a photo – this can be a sign of disrespect and might even lead to losing your camera – no experience here on that.
We notify the officer right off – first thing- we live here in Mexico. Occasionally that alone will end the bribe attempt. Their designs are on the fearful and uneducated. They don’t need to get into a verbal joust or engage potential problems – there are plenty of others, read most that will fearfully and willingly shell out the dough.
Write these words down on paper. Put it in your glove box – a copy in all your cars. Mordida is a fact of life in Mexico. The situation is a lot less threatening than a new visitor usually perceives. We find the police pleasant and even considerate – willing to ‘forgive’ or strike a deal or respond to reason like the two words above. Stay Tuned!
Here in Xalapa-Coatepec-Xico we are having some grand weather right now. We had the hardest winter in the last six of being here. But now – well it is as good as it gets.
This morning the birds are paying tribute to the sun. A thousand melodies that couldn’t have been scored more harmoniously. How do they do it?
This got me to thinking about the phrase “For the birds”. This indicating that something is rather useless. I don’t think of birds this way. What is the origin of this disrespectful comment on birds?
Google to the rescue. The answer turns out to be pretty funny – and definitely old school:
Before the advent of cars, one could see and smell the emissions of horse-drawn wagons in New York. Since there was no way of controlling these emissions, they – or the undigested oats in them – served to nourish a large population of English sparrows. If you said that something was for the birds, you’re politely saying that it’s horse crap.
Sundays around here are about family and fireworks here in our part of Mexico. You will only sleep in if you are used to sleeping in a foxhole on the front lines of a war somewhere. But that’s OK because sleeping in would only waste precious time. It wouldn’t be prudent to miss any of a day like today.
Early evening last night we took a walk up the street to get tortillas. There was a line. Sundays you better have your tortillas because the tortilleria is closed.
Walking back to the casa I spied a little lady carrying calla lilies; not unusual around here.
“¿Cuánto cuesta señora?”
“Seis pesos senor.” The equivalent of about 48 cents.
50 Cent Calla Lilies
Calla Lilies are synonymous with Mexico. Everyone has seen the famous Diego Rivera paintings incorporating calla lilies.
Diego Rivera
Occasionally, here you will see them growing wild even though they grow from bulbs. They are a hardy plant that will grow in just about any soil type as long as the climate is humid enough (our area certainly has the humidity aspect covered.)
It is getting close to Easter. Many people involved in processions, arco building and church functions. There are some amazing traditions in our neck of Mexico stay tuned to learn about some of them in the days that lead up to Easter.
“So why do you worry about clothing? Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow: They neither toil nor spin; and yet I say to you that even Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these.” (from the Bible: Matthew 6:27-29)
No argument here – God’s calla lilies couldn’t be more beautiful.
A wonderful time to be here in Mexico. Stay Tuned!
