The Celebration is winding down. The weather did not cooperate during the entire event. Yesterday it rained all day putting a damper on the biggest day which included the annual Bull Run on Hildalgo Street as well as Bull fights in the ring later in the afternoon.

The band Mariachi International of Guadalajara performed Wednesday night.

The Calypsos met up with Jürgen & Lulú at Rosy’s Zapateria to watch La Pamplonada or the running of the bulls down Main Street.

The bulls wandered rather aimlessly along the plywood and steel girded route. This year’s herd of 16 bulls seemed particularly large and intimidating. There were 10 hombres reported injured, apparently none seriously. Also reported that 25,000 people attended this event.

The Calypso couple enjoyed the celebrating with new and old friends; however La Pamplonada was less entertaining. We thought the throwing of 32 ounce Sol Beer cups (these probably had been refilled with water we are guessing) and other debris at the bulls, as well as kicking at the 16 animals as they lingered close to the fences was unnecessary and cruel. We are going to have to think seriously about returning to this event next year.

After the many hours of the bull run Jürgen & Lulú, our new friends met earlier in the week, and we walked down to El Campenario Restaurant for lunch. Later the rain continued as Anita and I walked all of Hildalgo towards home; no scooting around on Cruz Azul on this day. We bought an additional umbrella along the walk making it home with little more than wet feet.

The day before there was a massive collection of equestrians, more horses in one place than we have ever seen; more still than the Capitan Rodeo we attended on July 4^th. Looking up the street dotted along the entire route were white cowboy hats. The horse people paraded around Xico. The remnants of that parade were being washed away on Thursday – thankfully.

Wednesday night we were entertained in the park by the band Mariachi International of Guadalajara. This very polished group of hombres was professional and highly talented. They have been performing for more than ten years. This concert, one of the highlights of the week long celebration, was provided free by the city of Xico.

All in all in spite of the rainy weather the celebration was well attended and a fun time for the Calypsos.

Some photos from the Wednesday and Thursday:

El vaqueroito gets ready to load ‘em up and move ‘em out.

An Uppity Horse is not happy amongst all his brethren.

Vaqueras were represented as well as the Vaqueros.

No Surprise to see our landlord on his tall Stallion.

Another mujer beautifies the predominant caballeros.

Nothing but good guys – everyone wore their white hat.

Bull Run morning. The crowd waited patiently.

Cowgirls in high heels selling mora and torito libations -  wahoo!

The guapa Señora Calypso arrives at Rosy’s Zapateria. Let the party begin!

Our hostess Rosy surveys her three stories of guests from the calle.

Across the street this señorita spies my camera – nice pose. We are almost ready now!

Released bulls appear to be more interested in bashing each other than the humans.

Our amiga Rosy demonstrates the proper use of the bota bag! Viva Mexico!

Some of Rosy’s bota bag students – quick learners and lots of fun too!

Heels over head for bulls!

Crowd on their feet as someone gets pummeled down the way  – Bulls 16 Humans 0

Stay within the yellow lines and you will qualify for Handicapped Parking.

Meanwhile from Rosy’s secure Zapateria the party continued.

Moments after the last bull was corralled the calle filled  into the early morning hours!

We enjoyed the celebration which ends today – now for some rest from two weeks of celebrations. Life is never dull here in Mexico. Stay Tuned

We have been documented the Xico Festival in honor of the town’s patron saint Maria Magdalena.  If you have been following along you have read:

Here, here, here and here.

Nearly 1000 photos have been shot to bring you just a few from the event.  Not everyone sees the same thing in a photograph. Some will like a picture that others will not. But, I think people universally like to people watch. Here are some people watching photos I liked. Perhaps there will be some you enjoy. They all can be enlarged to see some nuances that otherwise might be missed.

I supplied a few comments as well along the way:

Good looking young people can not take a bad photo. (ENLARGE)

The family that clowns together stays together. (ENLARGE)

Sometimes it is about the colors. Men dressing like women – whatever floats your boat. (ENLARGE)

Paul an Englishman living in Xico. He lives in our Hood in Ursulo Galvan. (ENLARGE)

Sometimes it is about a moment and a glimpse. (ENLARGE)

Green hair will always get my attention. (ENLARGE)

Mexico is about family – Mothers and Daughters. (ENLARGE)

Cell phones in a public setting can be disturbing or just attention grabbing. (ENLARGE)

Our neighbor in the red hat with her friend and son – waiting out the rain.  (ENLARGE)

Did not like any of these? There are more to come. Give me another chance.  Please Stay Tuned!

For twenty days or so the men of Xico, Veracruz have been working towards the goal of strategically levitating a massive Arco of flowers mounted on thick long poles to be applied to the front the grand church of Santa Maria Magdalena at the top of Hildalgo Street.

In early July some of the townsmen went a far distance to gather the waxy shell like flowers, vines and other materials to be used to construct the  flowered arch over a couple of weeks. A lot of sacred pulque – a white milk like viscous alcoholic beverage made from the maguey plant, as well as beer and tequila have been consumed during all phases of construction and placement.

The pomp and circumstance of the ultimate conclusion of this effort enveloped Xico Wednesday.

The locals and many thousands of visitors were worked up into a frenzy by a fairly organized procession through the town of decorated toritos, bands with a variety of instrumentation, dancers, clowns and people dressed in brightly colored costumes, men dressed as women, children of all sizes, a cast of clergy, borochos, firework technicians, and of course Santa Maria Magdalena herself dressed in the finest brocade dress we have seen up to this point in the festivities.

The massive Arco (18 x 5 meters) and the parade of several thousand started at the west end of Xico at the Church of Cristo Rey. The procession traversed the town to the east end and then back up Hildalgo to the end, to the entrance of Santa Maria Magdalena Cathedral.

The Calypso couple wandered in and around this tumult with a certain immunity, at times as if invisible, from already being known to officials as a photo documenter seen at many city functions with my press pass – a Canon camera in my face.

It is one AM here in Xico as I sit at my desk punching keys on my computer.  I still hear children’s voices and the occasional burst of a volley of fireworks launching from toritos being run up and down the streets. And we are up at the northwest end of town – the quiet part.

North Americans might liken this event to the Rose Parade or Macy’s Parade or Mardi Gra; yet this has a distinctly Mexican flavor to it all. The pictures tell the story:

The Arco Undercover Being Made Ready to Move to Santa Maria Magdalene Cathedral

The Priest Blesses the Arco Prior to its Trip Around Xico

Some Parade Members Wait for the Arco to Head Down Through Xico

Colorful Costumed Dancers Entertained On Route

Don Antonio Meets up with Anita. He is the Octogenarian Godfather of Ursulo Galvan

Oh Those Hombres – Any Opportunity to Dress Up!

Some More Regular Hombres Carrying Big Sticks and Walking Not too Softly

The Arco Begins Its Journey

A Nina in Costume Wearing a Traditional  Xico Mask

At the Cathedral The People Wait – Our Young Neighbors from Ursulo Galvan

More of the Crowd – Wall to Wall People Converged on Xico

Mid Route the Rain Poured – The Toritos Were Covered and Moved Undercover

The Arco at the Base of the Cathedral Entry – Being Roped and Readied to Lift in Place

The Crowd Waited Patiently – Those with Cell Phones Used Them

Meanwhile the Incense was Kept Flowing as Maria Magdalena Looked On

Finally Lifting in Place – and Pulling Up From Above

Brave Souls Working on the Cathedral Ledges Pull the Arco In Place

Almost in Place. Jesus Waves to the Throng of People

There Were a LOT of Directors Waving and Shouting Commands

The Arco is in Place!

The Crowd Goes Wild Jumping Up and Down, Applauding and Yelling!

We captured more than 350 photos this day. Choosing a few was difficult. A long day of fun and fiesta for sure! Wednesday the party continues. Mariachis, bands, the callejoneada, and so much more. Stay Tuned!

Dateline: Monday night. Around 5 AM Monday morning the alfombra was started on Calle Hildalgo, Xico’s main street heading west into town. The Alfombras or dyed sawdust carpets can be traced back to the Mayans. They made these carpets with flowers for the kings to walk on in Mayan ceremonies. In the 16^th Century, the Catholic church changed the tradition of the alfombra by using colorful sawdust to create the carpets.

The Calypso couple didn’t make it at 5 AM; we did get there while the designs were still being laid out. It is kind of a paint-by-numbers activity, very choreographed as you will see in the photos. Entering into Xico you can look up the straight main-drag, Calle Hildalgo, all the way to where it ends at the entrance to Saint Maria Magdalena Church. The alfombra covers nearly the entire route. During construction the roadway is dotted with people placing the designs. The colorful patterns are a thing of beauty.

Later in the day around 3 in the afternoon it started raining. We were out documenting the Donacion de Toritos. This is more than 60 flame throwing, fire breathing, framed firework laden structures marched around town; finally they assemble at the big church at the west end of Hildalgo. All the toritos are blessed.

Each frame has a molded bull head and body center piece, a headdress if you will. This torito is draped over the head and shoulders of hombres that have the honor of running them up and down the streets – ultimately a well thought-out continuous fuse systematically ignites the hundreds of rockets assembled on the frames.

These ‘bulls’ can cost several thousand pesos running upwards to $1,000 U.S. dollars. If you have been reading along you saw some photos from last week’s Saint Carmen celebration. There were a total of six toritos at that celebration. We counted more than 60 for this celebration.

We have been taken hundreds of photos. Trying to pick a very few to show you readers is difficult. I wish we could show them all. Looking at the original photos full size, seeing the faces and the action of these events is great fun.

Here is a series of photos taken Monday morning of the alfombra project and later in the afternoon of the torito gathering.

Pictures:

As mentioned at 3 PM it started raining. It rained heavily off and on until about 8 PM.  Most of the alfombra was washed away, now nothing more than recorded history. After 10 PM there were workers restoring some of the carpet. It rained more near midnight but it was clear at 20 minutes to 1 AM at which point  the plaster divine Saint Magdalena  was marched along the carpet trail while a spectacular colorful fireworks display covered nearly the entire sky above. The town was near capacity with people pushing and shoving their way to the steps of the church.

Later today the arch will be set in front of the church. Stay Tuned!

We went to our favorite haunt the Acamalin Restaurant on Sunday afternoon. The town of Xico was/is full of visitors here to join in on the ongoing Fiestas Patronales de en Honor a Santa Maria Magdalena; Xico’s Patron Saint Celebration.

Bull fights were going on up at the southwest corner of town at the Plaza de Toros. Last week there were demonstrations in protest by an animal rights group relating to the event.

Tables were at a premium at the Acamalin. Often an occurrence on Sunday afternoons but amplified by the increase in population.  The Calypso couple occupied a table for four as did a couple at a table very near us. We all agreed to join forces and make a table available for others. Our host Senor Gómez was most appreciative.

Jürgen is a fellow tails-man (he sports a guapo pony tail), as well as a fellow talisman (“to initiate into the mysteries”) Jürgen writes a Blog about his life here in Mexico in the German language). His Blog will be linked here with his permission.

Jürgen introduced us to his wife Lourdes. We learned they were transplants from Mexico City, living in Xalapa for the past year. To our surprise Jürgen spoke excellent English as well as Spanish and German his native language. He translates books. A PHD translator and author. Lulú is a Mexicana, an attorney of 11 years, and completing studies in Xalapa to add psychotherapist to her resume. Quite a left brain – right brain combination I remarked.

They turned out to be a fascinating couple as you can well imagine.  They will join us on Thursday for the main event; the grand day of the Fiesta that will include the running of the bulls.

Later in the evening we received a call from Zanie and David. They had arrived from Oaxaca the day before on this leg of a vacation tour of Mexico. We had been emailing with them from their home base in San Francisco for some months now regarding this visit. They were in Xico staying at Hotel Coyopolan over on the south side of town (Prolongacion de Venustiano Carranza).

We agreed to meet in front of the big church on Hildalgo at 9:15 PM. David stands at about 6’4” and Zannie sports a lovely head of red hair. They were not hard to spot.

We had some libations at El Mesón Xiqueño restaurant in the middle of Hidalgo (Avenida Hidalgo # 148). We talked much until we heard horns and a big marching band drum blowing and banging in the street. The four of us rushed out to a street full, wall to wall, with people escorting Santa Maria Magdalena up towards her Church. We joined the procession.

Sunday’s Fashion Statement for Maria Magdalena

The crowd climbed the stairs to the large deck in front of the entrance to the church. More musicians  and many people gathered near the entrance. Volleys of fireworks were lifting off very near where we were standing. Sitting off to one side were a couple of hombres. One reached in a bag and pulled out some new plastic cups and out came a liter of tequila. Generous doses of the liquid gold were poured for the four of us as we introduced ourselves to our host Jose Efren.

While it was after midnight Senor Efren invited us to join him and his friends at 5 AM for the installation of the alfrombra, a rug of colored sawdust, pine needles, flowers, grain, pine cones, etc. This will be laid out from the start of Hildalgo all the way up to the iglesia (church) at the west end nearly a mile in length.

We all appreciated the invitation, but we explained were pretty sure we would be sleeping at 5 AM. Soon after Zannie and David headed to their hotel and we scooted home.

A few hours later we did hear a lot of fireworks from the comfort of our bed. We will head down to get some photos of the latest alfombra carpeting effort. It is a lovely morning. This display may last more than a few hours if the rain stays away;  since we have been back home it has rained at least part of every day.

The fiesta continues….Stay Tuned!

It is official. At about 2 PM local time El Presidente of Xico Municipal Rogelio Soto Suárez and other dignitaries cut the ribbon to start things off. The Calypsos arrived to witness the Enmolada Event. A celebration official told us that Xico has more than 120 mole vendors.

El Presidente Rogelio Soto Suárez in purple stripes cuts the Ribbon with a little help from his friends.

Not to be upstaged the divine Maria Magdalena was paraded down Hildalgo in her latest dress of bright orange.

Originally reported as a giant enmolada contest, this actually was the longest table of consecutive enmolada dishes ever in one place. After the officials began making their way down the table trying mole laden enmoladas from restaurants and mole manufacturers, the public was allowed to grab a provided banana leaf and fork and sample to their hearts and stomachs content.  We sampled several varieties of enmoladas – all muy sabrosa!

From our perspective it would be hard to make a bad Xico mole drenched enmolada. We are regulars at Acamalin Restaurant and I have to say that their enmoladas held up well against the competition. This was a great way to start things off. When was the last time you were treated to a totally free gourmet feed. Gracias Xico!

Following the fine feed was a dance put on by young dancers in traditional costumes. A talented group of youngsters.

The fun is just beginning. There is certain pleasure in small town celebrations. More Tomorrow so Stay Tuned!