If you are  heading south of the border you probably have sun screen in your bag and plan on both contending with and enjoying some rays. Well maybe. Of late we have had a lot of drenched daylight. But, Mexico surely is about sun, and we try and make the most of it.

Viva Veracruz gets mail asking about some of our rather quirky environmental eccentricities. Not too long ago we wrote about our sun hose shower system. Calling it a system is a bit of a liberty actually. We call it getting hosed.

A Sun Splashed Solar Shower. We don’t get this kind of pressure getting hosed.

We use water that has been warmed by the sun in a black 100 foot ¾” diameter hose. The hose is connected to a water line and has a sprayer on the outlet end. We stick the hose through our shower window and voila – a hot water shower.

Because we are renting we have not made a nice installation that would include installing said hose(s) on the south facing section of our essentially flat roof. The plan would include plumbing to the roof and a manifold to supply water to two 100’ length hoses (his and hers showers).

At present we merely have two hoses out on the slab that faces to the east. This provides mid morning to early afternoon showering opportunities. The hose should be rolled neatly to where the sun can cover all the hose surface facing skyward (see photo of one jumbled hose incorrectly and one neatly arranged correctly).  Currently we use one of the hoses around the yard as well – of course dedicated hoses, plumbed well and perhaps even connected to an alternative shower head and so on can make the installation all the better.

Good coil, bad coil.

But, down and dirty – the black hose haphazardly splashed with sunlight produces enough water to get a nice warm shower and a hair washing to boot.

Now if you put some beans to boil in the ‘sunoven’ after a warm shower you can enjoy a hot meal without having used any gas or electric. Pretty clever and oh so green.

Our Solar Cooking Oven – Gets as high as 325 F

On the move? Remember the solar water heater bag.

We travel with one of these – frugal and cleansing.

Sun Fueled! Getting clean and being green all at the same time – how cool is that?

Stay Tuned!

We are often asked about how much stuff we are able to caring on our 150 cc scooter; while also carrying the two of us.  Generally the answer is an average load of groceries. We thought a photo might help. Today we had a pretty full load; a good time to take a photo of the haul.

So the picture below represents a good size load of groceries. The tequila bottles are 1.75 liters by the way – so no small jugs there. Jarana an average pedestrian tequila, about the same or a little better quality than the ever popular in the U.S.  Jose Cuervo, costs 99 pesos for 1.75  liters or 2.33 fifths of Jose Cuervo for $7.75 U.S. or $45.09  U.S. at $18.00 U.S. per fifth including tax (what we paid plus tax in the New Mexico – when on sale).

A few have mentioned prices going up since gas prices continue to creep up here. However today must have been sale day at Chedraui our chain grocery store located in Coatepec. 170 gram canned tuna – while albacore in water for 6.27 pesos or approximately 50 cents U.S.  A big box of Kellog Corn Flakes (530 grams) for 20.9 pesos or about $1.65 U.S.  An average quality 6 pak of beer for $3.50 U.S. One Large can of La Costena black beans without preservatives (560 grams) for 9.87 pesos or 77 cents U.S. A 75 gram bottle of capers for 11.50 pesos or about 90 cents U.S. – I have no idea what capers cost in the U.S. but this seems reasonable.

Calypso’s groceries hauled on Cruise Azul (our 150 cc Chinese scooter).

Our total bill for all you see in the photo was 695.54 pesos or about $55.00 U.S. Now if we subtract the equivalent U.S. cost for the two bottles of tequila the remaining bill is 55 – 45.09 = $9.91 U.S.  Not a bad haul for a small Chinese scooter and a smaller wallet.

We have characterized our grocery savings at 25-30% as compared to the United States – still standing behind that. Your thoughts? Stay Tuned!

Imagine belonging to an organic food club. You are there to pick-up your order of honey and some coconuts. Suddenly four uniformed men enter with guns; each weapon steadied with both hands pointed directly at you. They are there for some milk.

We will be posting some post celebrations photos over the next few days but we had to interrupt that reality for this bizarre tale.

In today’s Los Angeles times it is reported that an organic health food club was raided by four officers who with guns drawn “….fanned out across Rawesome Foods in Venice [California]” looking for unmarked jugs of raw milk. The officers “ordered the hemp-clad workers to put down their buckets of mashed coconut cream and to step away from the nuts.” (L.A. Times article here)

Apparently this private food club was skirting some necessary licensing. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration bans interstate sales of raw milk advising that both milk and honey should be pasteurized.

Our first thought was how this law would be accepted here in Mexico where every day we see hombres hauling metal milk vessels, dispensing their product with a liter container into the container of shoppers at their door steps. (Read More about our local milkman HERE.

Our local Milkman (ENLARGE)

Not wanting to argue the safety factors regarding raw milk, honey or cheese, I know there are issues.  The thing that really fries my veggie bacon is the attached video to the article that was taken by an in store camera – four guys with guns walking through food isles. This just seems over the top for a food licensing issue.

For the last five hundred years or so Mexican people have been drinking raw goats and cow’s milk. I am sure there have been problems – of this there is no doubt. However in today’s market here in Mexico you can go buy a liter of highly pasteurized milk displayed in non-cooled stacks on grocery shelves. Eleven pesos per liter is the going rate (about 82 cents U.S. a quart) or buy from the hombre with the raw milk container and liter serving cup for 6 pesos a liter (about 45 cents U.S. a quart).

In Venice, California the illegal raw milk, a vegetarian’s delight, goes for $8.59 per half-gallon. I am pretty sure if our milk men here in Xico knew they could get that instead of the 90 cents per quarts volume they get here; those hombres would be riding their cows and herding their goats to the frontera.

But really what is up with the guns? Does the FDA truly think those health food people might be protecting their raw milk stores with armed security or what?

The average U.S. citizen is scared to death to cross over their southern border to Mexico in fear of being caught in the cross fire of the drug cartels.

Your author is now afraid to head north to visit a health food store for fear that some officer with a two-fisted gun set to fire in the single action mode (gun cocked) might have an accidental discharge or worse yet just feeling the need to drop me in my tracks because of the danger I exhibit having a half-gallon of raw milk in my shopping cart.

We choose to remain here in dangerous Mexico where we can choose or not to spend 6 pesos on a liter of raw milk from the friendly hombre on horseback at our door.

Stay Tuned if you dare – we are south of the border.

The Celebration is winding down. The weather did not cooperate during the entire event. Yesterday it rained all day putting a damper on the biggest day which included the annual Bull Run on Hildalgo Street as well as Bull fights in the ring later in the afternoon.

The band Mariachi International of Guadalajara performed Wednesday night.

The Calypsos met up with Jürgen & Lulú at Rosy’s Zapateria to watch La Pamplonada or the running of the bulls down Main Street.

The bulls wandered rather aimlessly along the plywood and steel girded route. This year’s herd of 16 bulls seemed particularly large and intimidating. There were 10 hombres reported injured, apparently none seriously. Also reported that 25,000 people attended this event.

The Calypso couple enjoyed the celebrating with new and old friends; however La Pamplonada was less entertaining. We thought the throwing of 32 ounce Sol Beer cups (these probably had been refilled with water we are guessing) and other debris at the bulls, as well as kicking at the 16 animals as they lingered close to the fences was unnecessary and cruel. We are going to have to think seriously about returning to this event next year.

After the many hours of the bull run Jürgen & Lulú, our new friends met earlier in the week, and we walked down to El Campenario Restaurant for lunch. Later the rain continued as Anita and I walked all of Hildalgo towards home; no scooting around on Cruz Azul on this day. We bought an additional umbrella along the walk making it home with little more than wet feet.

The day before there was a massive collection of equestrians, more horses in one place than we have ever seen; more still than the Capitan Rodeo we attended on July 4^th. Looking up the street dotted along the entire route were white cowboy hats. The horse people paraded around Xico. The remnants of that parade were being washed away on Thursday – thankfully.

Wednesday night we were entertained in the park by the band Mariachi International of Guadalajara. This very polished group of hombres was professional and highly talented. They have been performing for more than ten years. This concert, one of the highlights of the week long celebration, was provided free by the city of Xico.

All in all in spite of the rainy weather the celebration was well attended and a fun time for the Calypsos.

Some photos from the Wednesday and Thursday:

El vaqueroito gets ready to load ‘em up and move ‘em out.

An Uppity Horse is not happy amongst all his brethren.

Vaqueras were represented as well as the Vaqueros.

No Surprise to see our landlord on his tall Stallion.

Another mujer beautifies the predominant caballeros.

Nothing but good guys – everyone wore their white hat.

Bull Run morning. The crowd waited patiently.

Cowgirls in high heels selling mora and torito libations -  wahoo!

The guapa Señora Calypso arrives at Rosy’s Zapateria. Let the party begin!

Our hostess Rosy surveys her three stories of guests from the calle.

Across the street this señorita spies my camera – nice pose. We are almost ready now!

Released bulls appear to be more interested in bashing each other than the humans.

Our amiga Rosy demonstrates the proper use of the bota bag! Viva Mexico!

Some of Rosy’s bota bag students – quick learners and lots of fun too!

Heels over head for bulls!

Crowd on their feet as someone gets pummeled down the way  – Bulls 16 Humans 0

Stay within the yellow lines and you will qualify for Handicapped Parking.

Meanwhile from Rosy’s secure Zapateria the party continued.

Moments after the last bull was corralled the calle filled  into the early morning hours!

We enjoyed the celebration which ends today – now for some rest from two weeks of celebrations. Life is never dull here in Mexico. Stay Tuned

For twenty days or so the men of Xico, Veracruz have been working towards the goal of strategically levitating a massive Arco of flowers mounted on thick long poles to be applied to the front the grand church of Santa Maria Magdalena at the top of Hildalgo Street.

In early July some of the townsmen went a far distance to gather the waxy shell like flowers, vines and other materials to be used to construct the  flowered arch over a couple of weeks. A lot of sacred pulque – a white milk like viscous alcoholic beverage made from the maguey plant, as well as beer and tequila have been consumed during all phases of construction and placement.

The pomp and circumstance of the ultimate conclusion of this effort enveloped Xico Wednesday.

The locals and many thousands of visitors were worked up into a frenzy by a fairly organized procession through the town of decorated toritos, bands with a variety of instrumentation, dancers, clowns and people dressed in brightly colored costumes, men dressed as women, children of all sizes, a cast of clergy, borochos, firework technicians, and of course Santa Maria Magdalena herself dressed in the finest brocade dress we have seen up to this point in the festivities.

The massive Arco (18 x 5 meters) and the parade of several thousand started at the west end of Xico at the Church of Cristo Rey. The procession traversed the town to the east end and then back up Hildalgo to the end, to the entrance of Santa Maria Magdalena Cathedral.

The Calypso couple wandered in and around this tumult with a certain immunity, at times as if invisible, from already being known to officials as a photo documenter seen at many city functions with my press pass – a Canon camera in my face.

It is one AM here in Xico as I sit at my desk punching keys on my computer.  I still hear children’s voices and the occasional burst of a volley of fireworks launching from toritos being run up and down the streets. And we are up at the northwest end of town – the quiet part.

North Americans might liken this event to the Rose Parade or Macy’s Parade or Mardi Gra; yet this has a distinctly Mexican flavor to it all. The pictures tell the story:

The Arco Undercover Being Made Ready to Move to Santa Maria Magdalene Cathedral

The Priest Blesses the Arco Prior to its Trip Around Xico

Some Parade Members Wait for the Arco to Head Down Through Xico

Colorful Costumed Dancers Entertained On Route

Don Antonio Meets up with Anita. He is the Octogenarian Godfather of Ursulo Galvan

Oh Those Hombres – Any Opportunity to Dress Up!

Some More Regular Hombres Carrying Big Sticks and Walking Not too Softly

The Arco Begins Its Journey

A Nina in Costume Wearing a Traditional  Xico Mask

At the Cathedral The People Wait – Our Young Neighbors from Ursulo Galvan

More of the Crowd – Wall to Wall People Converged on Xico

Mid Route the Rain Poured – The Toritos Were Covered and Moved Undercover

The Arco at the Base of the Cathedral Entry – Being Roped and Readied to Lift in Place

The Crowd Waited Patiently – Those with Cell Phones Used Them

Meanwhile the Incense was Kept Flowing as Maria Magdalena Looked On

Finally Lifting in Place – and Pulling Up From Above

Brave Souls Working on the Cathedral Ledges Pull the Arco In Place

Almost in Place. Jesus Waves to the Throng of People

There Were a LOT of Directors Waving and Shouting Commands

The Arco is in Place!

The Crowd Goes Wild Jumping Up and Down, Applauding and Yelling!

We captured more than 350 photos this day. Choosing a few was difficult. A long day of fun and fiesta for sure! Wednesday the party continues. Mariachis, bands, the callejoneada, and so much more. Stay Tuned!

We went to our favorite haunt the Acamalin Restaurant on Sunday afternoon. The town of Xico was/is full of visitors here to join in on the ongoing Fiestas Patronales de en Honor a Santa Maria Magdalena; Xico’s Patron Saint Celebration.

Bull fights were going on up at the southwest corner of town at the Plaza de Toros. Last week there were demonstrations in protest by an animal rights group relating to the event.

Tables were at a premium at the Acamalin. Often an occurrence on Sunday afternoons but amplified by the increase in population.  The Calypso couple occupied a table for four as did a couple at a table very near us. We all agreed to join forces and make a table available for others. Our host Senor Gómez was most appreciative.

Jürgen is a fellow tails-man (he sports a guapo pony tail), as well as a fellow talisman (“to initiate into the mysteries”) Jürgen writes a Blog about his life here in Mexico in the German language). His Blog will be linked here with his permission.

Jürgen introduced us to his wife Lourdes. We learned they were transplants from Mexico City, living in Xalapa for the past year. To our surprise Jürgen spoke excellent English as well as Spanish and German his native language. He translates books. A PHD translator and author. Lulú is a Mexicana, an attorney of 11 years, and completing studies in Xalapa to add psychotherapist to her resume. Quite a left brain – right brain combination I remarked.

They turned out to be a fascinating couple as you can well imagine.  They will join us on Thursday for the main event; the grand day of the Fiesta that will include the running of the bulls.

Later in the evening we received a call from Zanie and David. They had arrived from Oaxaca the day before on this leg of a vacation tour of Mexico. We had been emailing with them from their home base in San Francisco for some months now regarding this visit. They were in Xico staying at Hotel Coyopolan over on the south side of town (Prolongacion de Venustiano Carranza).

We agreed to meet in front of the big church on Hildalgo at 9:15 PM. David stands at about 6’4” and Zannie sports a lovely head of red hair. They were not hard to spot.

We had some libations at El Mesón Xiqueño restaurant in the middle of Hidalgo (Avenida Hidalgo # 148). We talked much until we heard horns and a big marching band drum blowing and banging in the street. The four of us rushed out to a street full, wall to wall, with people escorting Santa Maria Magdalena up towards her Church. We joined the procession.

Sunday’s Fashion Statement for Maria Magdalena

The crowd climbed the stairs to the large deck in front of the entrance to the church. More musicians  and many people gathered near the entrance. Volleys of fireworks were lifting off very near where we were standing. Sitting off to one side were a couple of hombres. One reached in a bag and pulled out some new plastic cups and out came a liter of tequila. Generous doses of the liquid gold were poured for the four of us as we introduced ourselves to our host Jose Efren.

While it was after midnight Senor Efren invited us to join him and his friends at 5 AM for the installation of the alfrombra, a rug of colored sawdust, pine needles, flowers, grain, pine cones, etc. This will be laid out from the start of Hildalgo all the way up to the iglesia (church) at the west end nearly a mile in length.

We all appreciated the invitation, but we explained were pretty sure we would be sleeping at 5 AM. Soon after Zannie and David headed to their hotel and we scooted home.

A few hours later we did hear a lot of fireworks from the comfort of our bed. We will head down to get some photos of the latest alfombra carpeting effort. It is a lovely morning. This display may last more than a few hours if the rain stays away;  since we have been back home it has rained at least part of every day.

The fiesta continues….Stay Tuned!

What is the best way to get a job done? Throw a party!

Like a 19^th century country barn raising where a community comes together to assemble a barn for one or more of its households, the preparations for a Mexican celebration often turns into a community party.

In our Hood at the northwest end of the town of Xico, Veracruz we had just such an event last night. The Calypsos were invited by our Mexican neighbors to a Holy Mole Party!

Xiquena Mole is one of Xico’s claims to fame. This chocolaty, dark brown, rich sauce is a taste bud exploding delight! In the previous entry we mentioned our passion for the enmolada dish (the queso version – it also comes in chicken, pork and beef). In three days there will be the BIG enmolada contest – Stay Tuned for that.

Xico mole is very original and has a unique flavor. Among its ingredients can be found:

Chocolate (brown or yellow)  Almendras, Nuts, Peanuts, Grapes, Raisins,  Prunes, Anise, Piñón nuts, Apples, Cinnamon sticks, Onions, Garlic, Lard, Plátano, Mulato and Ancho chile, Sesame, Bread and more. It is sometimes made with beef pieces.

Once the ingredients, in this case grandma’s secret recipe, are placed in this HUGE kettle they are heated with a blowtorch like propane burner. Often these kettles are wood fired. I am told the propane gas is easier to control and actually enables less cooking time.

A team of hombres stirs the potion with small canoe paddles. This required-constant-stirring goes on for more than four hours (and they prepared three batches this long day).

The hombres stir until their arms burn; then the next team man’s the paddles. The crew at rest enjoys beer, mora, eats and social fun while regaining strength in their arms for the next shift of manning the paddles.

The girls are not left out of the stirring fun. Two steady the pot to keep it from being moved by the paddle action.

Anita and I took a turn at paddle pushing and pulling. The thick viscosity of the mole mixture will surely put your arm muscles to test. We didn’t last long.

Since the mole party was just a few blocks from our casa we went back and forth a few times during the four and half hours, we joined in on the last batch preparation. The Calypso couple contributed to the libations and lively conversation. In the last hour or so spooned samples are given to the ingredient ladies who decide on taste and additional cooking time requirements.

Man power changed during our visits. You can imagine that towards the end, the party aspect gets more rousing as the thick mole bubbles to a smooth consistency and libations have been amply imbibed.

Now completely cooked, the ladies ladle the creamy sauce into smaller big pots.

Finally a tradition for the participants is to take tortillas and wipe the big kettle clean, enjoying the hot mole to the last drop, and producing a clean kettle.

We were asked to take photos by our Bird dog amigo Jorge Cervantes. We have been friends for more than five years. At first everyone was quite shy – but in typical Mexican fashion once the camera gets going and a few shots are played back to the crowd almost everyone wants their picture taken. I will let the pictures do the rest of the talking.

Mixing Mole

The Mujeres Steady the Kettle

Many Hours into the Stirring

The Ninos (Children) Love to be Photographed

Anita is Invited to have a Little Drink

Mayordoma and Family Member

Our New Amigo Don Franco Takes a Break

Mole is Ladled into Pots

Good to the Last Tortilla Wiping!

Today Mole will be Served to more than 1000 people – Olé  Mole!

A good neighborly time was had by all. We made some new friends; got home late, content, with scrumptious mole and libations in our bellies. These ingredients inspired sweet dreams. Stay Tuned!

This is a Bi-Centennial year for Mexico – that big bash remains to be experienced. Bi-Centennial year aside without question the next two weeks or so are the most celebratory of the year here in the Xico area. This week up at our end of town we are celebrating Saint Carmen.

Saint Carmen is none other than the Mother of Jesus, Mary. She goes by several names here in Mexico.

Her feast day is July 16^th although the partying has been going on since last weekend. The fireworks and processions are ongoing daily.

Starting on the day following Saint Carmen’s Feast Day is the big tamale of local celebrations El Festejo de la Xiqueñada. Anita and I made a point of returning to Xico before this event – week long partying, great fun! You can read about last years experience of the event here (CLICK and scan down to several entries).

We had dinner at El Campanario restaurant last night with our friend from New Orleans Scott. He is rushing out of town just before all the fun really begins. We tried to reason with him to not leave until after the Xiqueñada Celebration.

The celebration is about having lots of fun with bull fights, a running of the bulls on Hildalgo street, endless food and drink, dancing, fireworks, carnival rides, and a sawdust carpet running the entire length of Hildalgo street thrown in. It is reported that last year 600,000 people attended with more expected this year.

Last years La Pamplonada or the running of the bulls – July 22, 2009

We will have to see if we were able to persuade Scott to stay. For the rest of you here is my version of the scheduled of events:

Already active the local men have  traveled near Pueblo, Mexico to gather the white flowers used in the making of huge arches that will be placed strategically at the entrance of some churches.  The hombres have been enjoying barbacoa feeds with lots of caña de pulcay and atole drinks after gathering the flowers and during the construction of the archs.

Six mayordomos ( selected leading families in the community) heading up the organization of pagan and religious festivities are receiving  donations of clothing for the near life size plaster statue of Mary Magdalene that is paraded through town; the reformed harlot being the towns patron saint. The elegant dresses for the statue are changed each day during the celebration week.

The Church of María Magdalena has an entire museum dedicated to these costumes. Hundreds of dresses that have been donated over the years are displayed here. You can visit it behind the grand church. To donate a dress is quite an honor – there is an actual waiting list.

The homes of the mayordomos (the festival stewards) are decorated with eye-catching multi-colored flags indicating where they live. Helpers and followers are treated to food and drink.

To kick things off, new to the festivities this year, in the recently completed newly designed park there will be a contest for the largest enmolada. On the 17^th restaurateurs and other locals involved with the making and selling of Xico’s famous mole will participate in preparing huge enmoladas. These are a particular favorites of the Calypso’s.

On the 18^th the festival continues with all the street side eateries and cantinas.  Bull fights will be held at the Xico arena. There are colorful notices all over town of that Impending event.

The full length of the town colorful sawdust carpet will be drawn and a grand fireworks display will happen on the 19^th with continued partying.

The 20^th will see the procession of the arch. It will be placed in front of the Chapel of Cristo Rey (Christ the King) and an ‘American Rodeo’. Mariachis will sing to Mary Magdalene and the party continues culminating on July 22^nd which includes la Pamplonada or the running of the bulls down our main street (see above photo) . It is a wrap on the 23^rd.

If you are in our area come and PARTY DOWN with us! Stay Tuned!

If you thought this was going to be about golf’s long shot – it is not. This is about the long drive from Xico, Veracruz to Las Vegas Nevada and back. Round trip is four thousand miles through four states and two countries. We did it in five weeks.

On the return trip the first part within the United States can lull a driver into a confidence that is better not acquired for the second part – the drive through Mexico.

Leaving Las Vegas is like visiting a casino on Saturday night – crowded and exciting with lots of cars and people, and bright lights.

Arizona is a land of many textures. Flagstaff has to have the longest ongoing road work project in history unless it is beat by the new bridge at Boulder dam. We were startled at 12% sales tax rate in Winslow, Arizona. In spite of the bad press Arizona is a lovely state to drive through especially if you have time to stop at the Grand Canyon.

New Mexico is more of the same but includes the  humongous Very Large Array satellite dishes. These grande platos listen in on deep space (radio astronomy observatory). They are a sight to see even from the highway – better still close up with a visit to the visitor’s center. Remember the Jody Foster film “Contact”?

VLA dishes shot taken near our car on the highway. (ENLARGE)

VLA Dishes Zoomed in. (ENLARGE)

VLA Dishes Pointed Skyward – telephoto shot (ENLARGE)

Many of the mountain tops are peppered with giant electric windmills slowly turning in gentle winds. In the little town of Carrizozo, New Nexico just 20 miles from our casita in Capitan we were delayed in traffic while two propellers were trying to make a turn that required some maneuvers.

You had to be there to get a feel for how BIG this is. (ENLARGE)

A closer prop shot. (ENLARGE)

There is no better place to doze while driving than meandering through Texas (this is not an endorsement of such behavior). I mean Texas is a snooze with little more than miles and miles of flat unappealing land and a few giant grasshoppers that are in fact oil well pumpers.

There is danger from driving 875 miles though Texas. It can dull your senses for driving the next 600 miles through Mexico – yikes! The Mexico drive is 100 miles longer than the Indy 500 and no less daring at a sluggard average speed, slightly more than a quarter of the average speed of this year’s 500 mile race.

Driving the highways of eastern Mexico is a dangerous challenge likened to going to war. Only the stout of heart should attempt this.

Trucks will pass you at 80 mph like you are standing still. There is almost always a road warrior that challenges reasonable survival practice by passing on blind curves or beginning a pass climbing a hill. Apparently solid yellow highway lines are meaningless to many Mexican drivers.

We encountered an older woman driving a small car packed with people – head on. On a main highway with a posted 110 kilometers speed limit we both had to come to complete stops; ending nearly front bumper to bumper as she came to a screeching rest on our side of the highway.

Now when these insane drivers get close enough to see the whites of their eyes you will never achieve eye contact. They seem to assume that by diverting their stare they become invisible – no eye contact no foul,  no matter how heinous the traffic violation or how close to death you all may have just come.

We saw huge trucks lying on the side of the road turned over like belly up dinosaurs. Ambulances stalk the roadways rushing the injured for repair – sadly some are totaled. It is dangerous territory. Slow moving tractors and the occasional tiny moto (scooter) or burro can clog a lane – often when there is only one to be had.

Want to get from there to here? Do not count on the signs or most maps. Truly we have seen three steel plated signs pointing in three directions mounted on the same pole, with the exact same name imprinted on all.  In Xalapa for example there are signs leading you to Coatepec. You follow wide-eyed looking for confirmation and further instructions.

At an intersection there suddenly is no indication of direction? Assuming nothing must mean continue straight; then out of the corner of your eye you spy a Coatepec this way sign off to the right. It is obvious some road engineer (warrior) forgot to provide instructions for that turn. It is easy to get lost for an hour or more wandering aimlessly around Xalapa. We have done it, and we live in the area!

We are more confident now after nearly six years and having seen just about all of it – but to gain sure confidence is a path to disaster because just when you think you have seen and know it all a new anomaly will erase that notion.

The horn always works – the tail lights probably do not – Mexico has no such thing as equipment violations. If it can move it is ‘legal’.  Those seldom if ever used emergency blinkers you have in your car – here they are used often as a license to park anywhere or to do some insane maneuver like doing a 180 in a busy intersection with no more regard for sensible behavior than “You must have seen my warning lights?”

Many of the roads are in disrepair. Carrying a spare set of shock absorbers and perhaps even springs and ball-joints is a good idea. Do not plan on averaging distances covered anywhere near that of which may be covered in America – figure at best half the distance for the same time frame.

On the east side of Mexico you will have no problem obtaining gas. “Pemex filling stations” abound. Buy no less than a compass for your dash and better still a GPS. Get pesos at the border; dollars are rarely accepted below 200 miles down in Mexico. DO NOT come here without Mexican auto insurance. We have written plenty about “mordida” (being stopped for a contrived traffic violation), as well as preparations for meeting immigration and transportation inspection events.

Like the last three or four round trips to the United States from our home in Mexico, we had an easy time of it with officialdom. In fact this time other than showing our passports to enter into the United States and my obtaining a tourists visa re-entering Mexico we had no inspections or delays from any authority. Everything went smoothly.

Even at Hoover dam where we have been harangued in the past, we were greeted cordially in Spanish; assuming from  our cars Mexican license plates we hailed from there – no one wanted to bother with why we were in a Mexican plated car. The United States should be credited with the fact virtually all border people and in this case personnel at Boulder dam are bi-lingual. A feature you will not find typically in Mexico.

We have mentioned that our Mexican insurance covers us in Canada and the United States as well as all of Mexico for about a third the cost of just U.S. auto insurance.

Do not drive in Mexico at night – good advice – not always taken by us. However this time we adhered to that and were thankful as we had several risky to downright dangerous encounters.

We are home and ready to get back to writing about living in Mexico – right after I do something about the jungle that has become our yard. So Stay Tuned!

It must be difficult for the Federal Government to sue one of its own. That is just what happened today: The United States is suing the State of Arizona. It is reported that the  people of the United States are divided as to whether greater enforcement of illegal entry or greater emphasis should be placed on dealing with the 12 million illegal aliens that are in the U.S.

Political division in the latest polls show that more than two-thirds of Republicans want the focus to be on border security, while 55% of Democrats want the focus to be on those in the country.

Perhaps working on both would be a  good thing.

It is safe to say that most Americans would like to see some form of comprehensive immigration reform.

It is also not difficult to understand the frustration Arizonians have with illegal aliens affecting their economy and quality of life.

A couple points that have been discussed here are that we support a reform, but not at the expense of the Constitution of the United States. We believe the Arizona law does compromise Constitutional rights and could heighten problems of racism. We are of the opinion that the enforcement of existing laws as well as more Federal involvement in an effort to resolve some or all of these issues is past due.

Living mostly in Mexico we suggest that President Calderon of Mexico face the facts that his demands for fair treatment of Mexican citizens must be a two way street. Poor treatment of illegal aliens entering Mexico’s southern border with Guatemala is widely reported.

We should add that we have had nothing but fair treatment relating to our being/living in Mexico. We consider Mexico our home regardless of our country of origin.

In this writer’s opinion more open borders at both ends of Mexico would be better.

Mexico allows people to be in the country as long as they bring sufficient money with them. Few come to Mexico to work obviously. So the scales are not equal.

These are very disquieting times for those of us living in Mexico as expatriates. In our area of Xico, Veracruz and the surrounding area including Coatepec and Xalapa we were feeling some slight negative attitudes about our being there just before we left five weeks ago. We hope we will go home to calm waters.

We often state our belief that more than 5 billion people living on this small planet must find ways to live together; to accept one another; and that we all must champion peace. Lofty ideals I know. But there is no reason to believe that these qualities of life can not be obtained.

We are delighted with the U.S. Federal Government taking action to stop Arizona from causing further erosion of the Constitution as a method of trying to solve their immigration woes. At the same time we accept the fact they are frustrated. We hope other ways can be found to lessen or end the problems.

Please stop the hating! We can, we must,  find peaceful solutions that will maintain the freedom and individual rights depicted in the United States Constitution.

We hope you all had a great Fourth of July Holiday in the United States.

Peace. Stay Tuned!