We have our detractors and critics when it comes to our view of Mexico, sad really. Most of these have to be pseudo-intellectuals who are quite certain their opinions are more valid than everyone else’s – in truth such small minds at work.

“In the end, we are self-perceiving, self-inventing, locked-in mirages that are little miracles of self-reference.” — Douglas Hofstadter, I Am a Strange Loop

It is starting off gloomy here Saturday morning. We are having espresso’s and some Mexican pan dulce (sweet bread). We put on some Oscar Peterson; his Jerome Kern song book. And then some John Coltrane and Tadd Dameron – Mating Call (1956) – Music helps make Life Good behind my eyes. Things feel good south of the border this morning! Come and make your own decision. Stay Tuned!

About 6 to 8 months before we met them in Coatepec they decided to move to Mexico. They sold their place in Arizona, bought a truck and an Air Stream trailer – packed it up with all their worldly possessions and headed out here.

Jim is disabled so he and Mindy flew to Veracruz and then bused it to Xalapa and a cab to Coatepec. Their truck and the Air Stream stuffed with all their possessions was driven out from Arizona by a couple hired hands.

Jim in Amelco (Photo by Mindy)

Without any further description you might imagine the effort it took to make all that happen. The kicker to all this as I mentioned above is Jim and Mindy had never laid eyes on this area.

Wind forward five years. Jim and Mindy visited us Sunday. We hadn’t seen them for about three years. They lived for a while not far from us in Teocelo, but there the winters were too cold for Jim, so they moved to lower ground closer to the coast – specifically to Chahuapan – a very small town not too far from Cardel. They lived there for three years until a new cement plant was built that creates so much dust they had to leave.

Five months ago they moved to Amelco.  A small village perhaps 10 miles as the crow flies from Chahuapan; however it requires about 40 minutes to drive through winding roads to get from their old place to the new one.

We wondered how they were fairing having taken the bull by the horns selling out and moving to a new country and home sight unseen. The report is: very well thank you.

The first thing noticed is they have lost quite a bit of weight. They look much healthier than when they arrived here 5 ½ years ago. A good thing.

When asked how they are doing after five years in a new country, their reply includes how happy they are.  “It is not perfect here; but so much better than in the U.S.” Of course we agree. They have not returned to the United States since the move here.

We have watched their story unfold with some trepidation. I mean – two people packed up and moved to a rather obscure part of Mexico mostly based on what they had read in emails with us and this Blog. Had we created a monster situation? Should we feel responsible for actions that were highly discouraged by any foreigner that had moved to Mexico before them – including our insistence that they should come and visit the area BEFORE making a move?

Please understand we remain steadfast in our strong recommendation to NOT just sell out, pack-up and head here without at least a visit. But, in this case it worked out very well.

Mexico is mysterious, an adventure, not to be taken lightly by the casual dreamer. But, for the true adventurer it has a lot to offer.

Mindy Works on the Satellite Internet Dish (Photo by Jim)

Jim and Mindy made the visit yesterday in part to get a part that we had purchased for them for their satellite Internet system. They have been off the Internet other than the occasional visit to an Internet café for about 5 months. We hope the part will resolve their problem; that they will be back on the ‘air’ to tell the rest of their story themselves. Stay Tuned!

We are not big fans of beauty contests and lots of eye makeup, but it is nice to see this success for Mexico. Mexico is a proud nation. The newly crowned 22-year-old has been quoted promoting Mexico and sharing her victory with her country. Nice to see in more ways than one. Stay Tuned!

Mid-morning today (Saturday) we scooted into Xico and beyond. We were hoping ultimately to go as far as Coatepec to buy bread and cheese.  But alas this was not to be.

Shortly out of Xico on the road between there and Coatepec we encountered a lot of traffic. It seems in some municipal manager’s infinite wisdom that Saturday would be a good day to repair the one-lane in each direction highway. My less educated sense for things relating to road construction would have thought a less busy day of the week might be better time to virtually totally disrupt the flow of traffic – I mean rather than when everyone off work that wants to go out to the store and whatever was on the roadway.

In any case the road was packed, backed up and pretty much rendered immovable. We scooted to the front of the line but were not allowed to go beyond. Then the rain started and continued. We limped into the Pemex gas station near the entrance to Coatepec to wait out the rain.

During the wait I noticed several fellows arrived on the scene with carpet bagger type satchels. Each was full of windshield wipers. Obviously these hombres woke up this morning or were already packed up for just such an event. When the rain comes out there will be many in need of windshield wipers.

Of course this makes perfect business sense. Top peso can be obtained when you can provide for a need like wipers during a persistent rain. If these hombres were selling rain ponchos we would have been in the market right then as well.

We thought it was very industrious and typical of the framework of marketing Mexican style. Providing basic needs on the spot makes terrific marketing sense.

Then we got to thinking, how would this work in the U.S.? If you attempted to sell in the street you would certainly need a permit. You would likely be run off competing with the more established businesses. If you were under 18 in states like California you would be forbidden from working at all without possessing a high school diploma – something I am pretty sure these hombres lacked.

To obtain a license and subsequent permission to sell you would most likely be required to carry some liability and casualty insurance. Hypothetically if a wiper you installed failed in some manner you would be sued – perhaps even your entire family.

If you offered any warranty you would have to post a bond and back it up in writing. Here in Mexico – they will tell you if there is any problem I am here on this corner often.

The U.S. is a complex quagmire in many ways. This direct Mexican marketing has not only charm but good sense attached to it. Stay Tuned!

Saturday night the guapa Senora Calypso and I bused into Xalapa. We took a cab from the main bus drop off to the Palacacio area in the central district. In this central area just a block or so up from the huge and magnificent  Palacio is Juarez Park  (Parque Juárez). The park is also magnificent being European like, cosmopolitan and old world all rolled up into one.

Mexican parks are lived in. They truly are a reflection the fabric of the society.

First about the bus. We opted to bus into Xalapa and take cabs to avoid driving at night in one of the wildest cities in the world to take on the challenge of driving. It is about $3 U.S. to get from Xico to Xalapa. Then we hired a cab to drive us to the Palacio in the central district. BEFORE you get in the cab ask the price – make your deal prior to entering the cab, period. In this case the fee was $1.60 U.S. (20 pesos).  This is typical for running around the city. We walked to a number of entertainment points from the Palacio. We returned home from near the Palacio to our door in Xico for 130 pesos + 20 peso tip – so 150 pesos (about $12. U.S.) to get home by cab. It is about 15 miles one way; we left home about 8:30 PM and returned at 3:30 AM – seven full filled hours.

While walking near the Juarez Park we heard some PA checks blaring out. “Uno, dos, si, si – Uno, dos, si, si.”  The sounds were emanating from down below the park near the Cultural Center building. We arrived there just as the setup was completed. Soon a local dance company put on a terrific show that included modern dance, flamenco and some traditional Mexican dance. This in celebration of the 31 year anniversary of the Cultural facility. It was excellent and an unexpected  treat.

Continuing  the walk in the area of Zona Centro, we found Callejón Gonzalez Aparicio. This is an entertainment and culinary delight filled area that is a bit hard to find. Essentially it is a two block alley that has small tables set up along one side. It is much like a street of small European drink and dinner places; some spots have upstairs balconies where people can people watch at second story level.

The atmosphere is hip, eclectic, and clean. We sat down at a compact establishment called ‘Cubanias’.  We had a beer and a glass of wine and watched people, until we got our second wind to hit more dance spots.

We continued walking along stopping to listen to some fusion music at the end of Callejón Gonzalez Aparicio near the “Irish Pub.” This is an interesting area not to be missed.

Our final club of the night was jammed packed with partiers. Apparently there are no body count restrictions for these public places. We stayed near the entrance to get some fresher air and have an early route of escape if a stampede occurred.

Being the usual shoulder and head higher than everyone else, looking the entire room over I saw nothing but head after head covering the entire perimeter. I can honestly report that if your hands were at their sides you would not have enough room to raise them to wave your arm to the blasting sounds of “The Black Eyed Peas.”I Gotta Feeling” This IS worth a look and listen – turn your system to 10 and ROCK! Think a mass of partiers jumping and singing to this.

I gotta feeling that tonight’s gonna be a good night
that tonight’s gonna be a good night
that tonight’s gonna be a good good night.

Tonight’s the night night
Let’s live it up
I got my money
Let’s spend it up

Go out and smash it
like Oh My God
Jump off that sofa
Let’s get get OFF

I know that we’ll have a ball
if we get down
and go out
and just loose it all

I feel stressed out
I wanna let it go
Lets go way out spaced out
and loosing all control

Fill up my cup
Mazal tov
Look at her dancing
just take it off

Lets paint the town
We’ll shut it down
Let’s burn the roof
and then we’ll do it again

Lets Do it, Lets Do it, Lets Do
and live it up

Here we come
here we go
we gotta rock

Easy come
easy go
now we on top

Feel the shot
body rock
Rock it don’t stop

Round and round
up and down
around the clock

Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday
Friday, Saturday, Saturday and Sunday

we keep keep keep keep on going
we know what we say
party everyday
party everyday

got a feeling
that tonight’s gonna be a good night

The fascinating thing is nearly everyone in the joint knew all the lyrics and sang them out – that is a lot of English. I have no idea if they knew what all these words meant – but the pronunciation around our area was amazingly accurate.

Now we are sure there are those of you regular readers out there wondering what an old guy like me is doing dancing the night away – well wriggling in the crowd is more accurate. A little aerobic exercise until three in the morning might be said. I have no answer or excuse.

Round and round, up and down, around the clock we painted the town. What can I say? Saturday night was a good night – a good night! And Sunday was a day of rest for this ol’ hombre.  Stay Tuned!

Washing the Grass Down with a Little Milk (ENLARGE HERE)

It is Sunday so we are being lazy. A few minutes ago this young lady, 4 years old was being exercised across the road from us. She is a beauty!

Looks like blonds do have more fun! (ENLARGE)

(ENLARGE HERE)

(ENLARGE HERE)

Time for a Grass Break (ENLARGE HERE)

All this entertainment and we don’t have to buy hay   A tranquil day for horsing around.  Stay Tuned!

Yesterday we had a surprise visit from the little foal. She seems to be growing fast with quite the personality. Mom is tethered across the roadway.

It is a mystery as to how the lot across from us gets occupied by horses, or burros, or goats? We have been told the lot belongs to someone in Mexico City. First come, first serve?

The little one is allowed to roam free assuming she will not stray far.

This assumption may not be totally accurate. Oh we are mere feet from mom, but the little one has been seen in the street around the corner and in other places of some distance.

Like children around here she is quite safe. Neighbors watch for her. We do keep an eye on the little chamacos who love to throw rocks at each other and at the occasional animal. More than once we have run out to halt the pelting of a burro or goat across the way.

The owner showed up across the street. It was obvious the foal knew her owners as she scurried back from our place. The dueño (owner) and  his young son were horseback. The little fellow made a valid attempt at feeding his fingers to the little foal.

It is different finding a horse in your yard; albeit a very small one. We are monitoring her growth, and enjoying her visits.

Tomorrow a visit to our local wood fired oven bakery. Stay Tuned!

Don Tepo lives on the north side of mid-town. He and his family own most of the block; a large chunk of real estate that has been chopped up into 5 meter wide casitas – all family members. His place is easy to find. Because David Tepo is an institution in Xico the city has seen fit to place a street sign in front of his house depicting the location of an artisan.

We had a one PM appointment to take some photos and interview him.

When we arrived he was at the front door of his dirt floor casita shop. Next to his house one of a couple of his sons that are carrying on the trade made good use of his 5 meters to let anyone driving by that masks were available.

We noticed some heads actually built into the foundation stem wall of his son’s casita

Carved wooden masks depicting clowns, men and women, animals, devils, demons and various mythical beasts are a tradition in our pueblo of Xico. They are commonly referred to as dance masks.

Don Tepos masks appear at celebrations throughout our area. Each one of these hand carved and hand painted wood masks is unique. Each papier-mâché mask is uniquely painted as well. The wood masks are carved from a very light fibrous wood with a long unpronounceable name.

Mascara tradicional de Xico tallada por David Tepo

Entering the little shop front room  sales area the walls are covered with newpaper articles, posters and examples of Don Tepo’s work. Behind a glass counter were some masks and carvings as well as a painting done by Don Tepo. A colorful curtain covered the entry to his workshop. He invited us in.

Vintage masks that have been used in dances and ceremonies are collectable, expensive and hard to acquire, but many newer masks are beautifully done and relatively inexpensive. The papier-mâché masks run from 65 pesos to 150 pesos while the wood carved masks start at 450 pesos and go up depending on the complexity of construction. Quite the bargain for the artistry and construction time.

We came home with two papier-mâché  masks and we are on the waiting list for a wood carved model. They are quite irresistible as is Don Tepo a father of ten children; eight boys and two girls. He is a gentle spirit who explained his wife passed away seven years ago; but surrounded by his boys he is well cared for.

I asked Don Tepo if he has advice for the younger folks on how to get to 80 as happy and content as he appears to be. Never smoked, little drink and do everything you can to be happy. Good advice. He told Anita we should return often, not just to visit for an interview  or to buy masks. We said we would and left feeling good about making a new friend.  Stay Tuned!

We will be posting some post celebrations photos over the next few days but we had to interrupt that reality for this bizarre tale.

In today’s Los Angeles times it is reported that an organic health food club was raided by four officers who with guns drawn “….fanned out across Rawesome Foods in Venice [California]” looking for unmarked jugs of raw milk. The officers “ordered the hemp-clad workers to put down their buckets of mashed coconut cream and to step away from the nuts.” (L.A. Times article here)

Apparently this private food club was skirting some necessary licensing. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration bans interstate sales of raw milk advising that both milk and honey should be pasteurized.

Our first thought was how this law would be accepted here in Mexico where every day we see hombres hauling metal milk vessels, dispensing their product with a liter container into the container of shoppers at their door steps. (Read More about our local milkman HERE.

Our local Milkman (ENLARGE)

Not wanting to argue the safety factors regarding raw milk, honey or cheese, I know there are issues.  The thing that really fries my veggie bacon is the attached video to the article that was taken by an in store camera – four guys with guns walking through food isles. This just seems over the top for a food licensing issue.

For the last five hundred years or so Mexican people have been drinking raw goats and cow’s milk. I am sure there have been problems – of this there is no doubt. However in today’s market here in Mexico you can go buy a liter of highly pasteurized milk displayed in non-cooled stacks on grocery shelves. Eleven pesos per liter is the going rate (about 82 cents U.S. a quart) or buy from the hombre with the raw milk container and liter serving cup for 6 pesos a liter (about 45 cents U.S. a quart).

In Venice, California the illegal raw milk, a vegetarian’s delight, goes for $8.59 per half-gallon. I am pretty sure if our milk men here in Xico knew they could get that instead of the 90 cents per quarts volume they get here; those hombres would be riding their cows and herding their goats to the frontera.

But really what is up with the guns? Does the FDA truly think those health food people might be protecting their raw milk stores with armed security or what?

The average U.S. citizen is scared to death to cross over their southern border to Mexico in fear of being caught in the cross fire of the drug cartels.

Your author is now afraid to head north to visit a health food store for fear that some officer with a two-fisted gun set to fire in the single action mode (gun cocked) might have an accidental discharge or worse yet just feeling the need to drop me in my tracks because of the danger I exhibit having a half-gallon of raw milk in my shopping cart.

We choose to remain here in dangerous Mexico where we can choose or not to spend 6 pesos on a liter of raw milk from the friendly hombre on horseback at our door.

Stay Tuned if you dare – we are south of the border.

The band Mariachi International of Guadalajara performed Wednesday night.

The Calypsos met up with Jürgen & Lulú at Rosy’s Zapateria to watch La Pamplonada or the running of the bulls down Main Street.

The bulls wandered rather aimlessly along the plywood and steel girded route. This year’s herd of 16 bulls seemed particularly large and intimidating. There were 10 hombres reported injured, apparently none seriously. Also reported that 25,000 people attended this event.

The Calypso couple enjoyed the celebrating with new and old friends; however La Pamplonada was less entertaining. We thought the throwing of 32 ounce Sol Beer cups (these probably had been refilled with water we are guessing) and other debris at the bulls, as well as kicking at the 16 animals as they lingered close to the fences was unnecessary and cruel. We are going to have to think seriously about returning to this event next year.

After the many hours of the bull run Jürgen & Lulú, our new friends met earlier in the week, and we walked down to El Campenario Restaurant for lunch. Later the rain continued as Anita and I walked all of Hildalgo towards home; no scooting around on Cruz Azul on this day. We bought an additional umbrella along the walk making it home with little more than wet feet.

The day before there was a massive collection of equestrians, more horses in one place than we have ever seen; more still than the Capitan Rodeo we attended on July 4^th. Looking up the street dotted along the entire route were white cowboy hats. The horse people paraded around Xico. The remnants of that parade were being washed away on Thursday – thankfully.

Wednesday night we were entertained in the park by the band Mariachi International of Guadalajara. This very polished group of hombres was professional and highly talented. They have been performing for more than ten years. This concert, one of the highlights of the week long celebration, was provided free by the city of Xico.

All in all in spite of the rainy weather the celebration was well attended and a fun time for the Calypsos.

Some photos from the Wednesday and Thursday:

El vaqueroito gets ready to load ‘em up and move ‘em out.

An Uppity Horse is not happy amongst all his brethren.

Vaqueras were represented as well as the Vaqueros.

No Surprise to see our landlord on his tall Stallion.

Another mujer beautifies the predominant caballeros.

Nothing but good guys – everyone wore their white hat.

Bull Run morning. The crowd waited patiently.

Cowgirls in high heels selling mora and torito libations -  wahoo!

The guapa Señora Calypso arrives at Rosy’s Zapateria. Let the party begin!

Our hostess Rosy surveys her three stories of guests from the calle.

Across the street this señorita spies my camera – nice pose. We are almost ready now!

Released bulls appear to be more interested in bashing each other than the humans.

Our amiga Rosy demonstrates the proper use of the bota bag! Viva Mexico!

Some of Rosy’s bota bag students – quick learners and lots of fun too!

Heels over head for bulls!

Crowd on their feet as someone gets pummeled down the way  – Bulls 16 Humans 0

Stay within the yellow lines and you will qualify for Handicapped Parking.

Meanwhile from Rosy’s secure Zapateria the party continued.

Moments after the last bull was corralled the calle filled  into the early morning hours!

We enjoyed the celebration which ends today – now for some rest from two weeks of celebrations. Life is never dull here in Mexico. Stay Tuned