We have been looking at real estate of late. Before I start getting email from family and friends as to WHY we would be looking for more real estate, let me remind and state right off that I simply enjoy looking. I am a real estate junky.

The activity of going through people’s ‘for sale’ homes and traveling streets and hidden corners of one’s own area can be quite telling.

Even though we have been looking at properties and buying a couple in the last five years of being in this area we had never focused our attention or even titillated our fantasies with much attention to the city of Xico – mind you we own two properties in the Municipal of Xico. However now that we live in the city of Xico we have been looking there.

Five years ago I connected with what a New Orleans expatriate coined as a ‘Bird Dog’. This is a loosely titled buyer’s real estate agent. The bird dog scours the area for available real estate. ‘Our’ bird dog actual sports a business card now: Jorge Cervantes Lozada’s card reads, “VENDEDOR DE TERRENOS Y CASAS.” Roughly translated the hombre will find you land or a house.

When I first met Jorge (Hor Hey) buyer’s agents were just coming into vogue in the U.S. Yet another layer of complication and expenditure.

Lest you be confused you should know that here in the wild wild south of the border the real estate process is far less organized. You might find a casa listed on the Internet by 5 or more different ‘real estate agents’; usually with 5 or more different listing prices and a vast array of details or lack thereof.

You should keep in mind that most likely none of these agents actually has a contract to sell the property. So bird dog seems a very appropriate title for these folks.

Jorge has other jobs. He teaches construction to mentally challenged young people and cleans out water tanks. Obviously bird dogging Mexican style isn’t as of yet a sustaining career; at least not for our spotter.

Jorge has been bringing us for sale properties of late; quite a few. We have seen both raw land and mostly homes. We have looked from one end of Xico to the other (about a mile and a half from east to west and a half mile north to south.

Jorge Shows Anita the View from a Deck

Xico really is a charming little town of about 15,000 inhabitants including the near surrounding area. In as much as it is principally a tourist town the Mexican Government is currently pouring quite a few pesos into developing and arguably maintaining its charm (more on this in the days to come).

Within the city proper Jorge tells me on his good authority that raw land is going for 1000 pesos a square meter. It should be mentioned that there is not a lot of available raw land in this little area – but this figure is Jorge’s rule of thumb sort of speak.

When I tell you rule’s of thumbs are really needed you must realize that people here will price the sale of their property on some very strange bases. Not enough word room today to go into the details but you shouldn’t be surprised if a property’s value was set by the cost to build a casa for a son or daughter with little regard for what the sale property might actually be worth.

You should also know that in most small Mexican cities the properties are severely narrow. In the city of Xico seven meters or 23 feet is an average width for a lot. The depth or length of lots can vary greatly but in almost all instances the width will be quite narrow compared to what you might be used to in the United States.

I would characterize a 50 to 70 foot wide lot in the United States as on the small side; half that would be an average lot here in Xico.

Using a 70’ X 100’ average lot, we arrive at 7000 square feet or about 650 square meters of land. That 650 square meter lot in Xico using Jorge’s rule of thumb of 1000 pesos per meter comes to 650,000 Mexican pesos or $50,000.00 U.S. at the current rate of exchange.

While a postage stamp sized lot in Xico, Veracruz, Mexico will cost that. At the same time you can rent a very nice two bedroom house for 3,000 to 5,000 pesos or $230 US to $385 US.

You can see that most expatriates rent here rather than buy, You can count the foreigners that own houses in Xico on one hand, and there are but a few more in the entire municipal (county more or less).

A year or so back a young middle aged couple from Texas was renting a place on a hectare and a half of land (about 3 acres). It included a small two story cottage in a lovely setting along a clean river. This rental property located on the outskirts of Coatepec was also for sale at that time for about $80,000 U.S.

The couple told us they had been considering buying the place but were still undecided. I suggested 80k was an attractive asking price. The woman corrected me, “You mean $8,000.00 U.S. don’t you?

“Well no said I. It is $80,000.00 U.S.” She retrieved a calculator and began figuring. I assured her I knew the conversion and that wasn’t necessary. It turned out they had computed the exchange with an errant decimal place and had been thinking the property and the cottage were $8,000.00 U.S. dollars.

Be sure to get your conversions straight before heading down to Mexico for that good buy. Stay Tuned!

Here in Mexico we do not celebrate the arrival of Europeans at Plymouth Rock; the beginning of the ethnic cleansing of the American Indian.

There is a lot to be thankful for. We gather those thoughts each time we participate in this holiday – not the celebration of the landing in Massachusetts; or was it Jamestown, Virginia? That aside we have a great many things for which to be thankful.

We are thankful to have made it to Mexico. It is an adventure to live in a spirited Nation. It is truly a fine country.

We are thankful that we have enough money to live without feeling pressure or fear of rising avocado, tortillas or tequila prices. Mexican government please take note – we have our limits on this.

We are extremely thankful to be living in a place with moderate weather and abundant water. We would be still more grateful if greater attention was given to the effort to not pollute said abundant water.

We are ecstatic about the freedoms we have here in Mexico. Lest you be confused, we assure you this is a far freer nation than anything north of our Mexican border.

We are very happy to have learned that the negative propaganda spewed from north of the border news sources is just that propaganda. We live in a far safer country here in Mexico.

We have to be so very lucky to have met many wonderful fellow expatriates and those wanting to be via the Internet – thank you Al Gore for inventing the darn thing.

We have also acquired some good friends face to face from Internet introductions like Jim and Mindy, Harvey and Mati, Marguerite and Tony, Beto Johnson, Marvin, Ron Stockman, Olivia, Bonnie and Charles, Dave and Rosy and recently Rob in Teocelo. And Jim and Esther – it is Thanksgiving.

We are thankful for the many Mexican friends we have – Vicente and Lidia, Javier and Claudia, Avi and Jero, Miguel and Veronica, Enrique and Teri and too many more to list.

Anita and I are very thankful to have a fine son who shared his life with us 24/7 until he struck out on his own a few years ago. He is a good fellow – we are indeed blessed by him. I do wish he would call more often however.

I am most thankful for Anita who is my best friend and soul mate (we waited years to claim that second part – that truly needs time testing). She makes each day something to look forward to.

I am going to close with a Thanksgiving joke:

Before that first Thanksgiving there were a bunch of American Indians standing on the East Coast shore watching those first ships come billowing in towards land.

One Indian says to another, “That is our problem; we don’t have any immigration laws!”

Anita and I hope you and yours have a wonderful and thankful Thanksgiving Holiday.

Please Stay Tuned!

(Note: Drawing by Newberry Taylor 2008 – Artist and Friend)

In our ongoing effort to let readers know what it cost to live in our part of paradise, here are some recent cost examples.

We occasionally indulge ourselves by purchasing large baked muffins. They are comparable in size to one’s I have seen in convenience stores across the U.S., costing $1.50 on up.

At Chedraui, the local supermarket in Coatepec these babies cost 5.9 pesos (sales tax included). That is about 45 cents U.S. at the current exchange rate. A tasty bargain. Four years ago they were about 35 cents U.S.

Six medium sized, guaranteed to be savory, avocados – 18.5 pesos (sans the tequila shot glass). That works out to $1.42 U.S. or 24 cents U.S. per green globe. Four years ago those 6 beauties could be had for 90 cents U.S. or $15 cents U.S. each.

A 170 gram can of light albacore tuna costs 8 pesos or 62 cents U.S. Since the exchange rate in the last four years has gone from about 10 to 1 to 13 pesos to 1 U.S. dollar tuna has not really increased in four years

A half kilo (about 20 flat corn discs) of handmade tortillas is 5 pesos or 39 cents U.S. These are delivered hot to our door each morning around 8:30 and 10 A.M. on Sundays. Four years ago 3 pesos for a half kilo of handmade tortillas.

An appetizing, mostly healthy, lunch at Tia’s two doors up from Casa Campanas is 30 pesos or $2.30 U.S. tax included propina (tip) is 5 pesos more.

Unleaded gasoline is currently 7.72 pesos a liter or $2.25 U.S. per gallon. Hard to say what it was four years ago as we all know fuel prices have been all over the map during that time.

Our most recent electric bill was 60 pesos for two months power use. That is $4.62 U.S. or the same price currently for a kilo of excellent Xico coffee.

Our Coffee POWER Station

That is $2.10 U.S. for a pound of java and just a few examples of the cost of living south of the border.

Tell us what you are paying for these life necessity’s north or south of the border. Stay Tuned!

Get-a-ways are designed for just that. Living day to day in Xico, Veracruz we seldom if ever have anything to get away from. Life is easy going and fun right in town. Rancho Del Cielo is just 3 miles across town past the cemetery and up the mountain side about a thousand feet higher from our townhouse Casa de Campanas.

The big Tree at Rancho Del Cielo (ENLARGE)

Not having visited up there for three months, I knew taking along the new Stihl weed eater was a must – get-a-way yard work would be the order of the day (or two).

Lots of Grass (ENLARGE)

Lawn cutting and weed eating and house cleaning aside, we had a terrific two days with purrrfect weather. I missed all the weekend golf and futbol, but then not really. A surprising little amount of snow is on Pico de Orizaba. As usual an awesome sight.

Majestic Pico de Orizaba – November 15th (ENLARGE)

We are back in town. It rained all day yesterday. Today is predicted to be sunny and warmer. Rain or shine there is little to complain about in our neck of the tropics. Stay Tuned!

One of many favorite lines in Hemingway’s “The Old Man in the Sea” is “Old age is my alarm clock.” I am an early morning riser. The fair young damsel that lost her mind and married me is not.

Early morning in Mexico is very special compared to the rest of the day and night in that it is most often quiet save an occasional rooster or braying burro.

It won’t be until after six that we hear the oft blared tortilla vendor’s melody from Scott Joplin’s piano rag “The Entertainer”, or the banging of propane tanks carted around by stake bed trucks, and oh so much more. By seven the little pueblo of Xico will be alive and nosiy to prove it.

But right now it is me with my thoughts.

I grabbed my trusty Canon and hurried to the roof top to show you dawn’s light here at Casa Campanas.

It looks to be a lovely day. The sky is clear just since the BIG dipper disappeared from view in the back yard – looking north. This morning for some unknown reason that celestial ladle loomed large? Perhaps it was other stars that I pieced together? But I think not. Did you happen to see it?

Friday the thirteenth. I am not a superstitious type. My first Blog of the morning was some rather heart wrenching news from one of my favorite Blogger’s on Mexico – Bliss. Sad news.

On a morning like this how I wish I could wax poetic, lyrically, eloquently, and philosophically like my amigo Felipe. Instead I will flip over to his Blog for that. In the mean time you have settled for my pedestrian rantings.

In any case we are going to go out and make it a good day as sunshine is always welcome and when it appears no matter the date or life’s circumstances we feel better for it. Stay Tuned!

My love affair with all things bread goes way back. Since moving to Mexico I have become a big fan of peso pan.

For one peso or about seven and a half U.S. Cents here in our neck of the tropics you can buy a savory piece of pastry.

To be a connoisseur of peso pan one must visit a lot of panaderias (bakeries); to find the good stuff.

Yesterday we scooted around Xico on just such a mission. The Cruz Azul scooter stopped in front of many bakery doors as if it had a nose for such things. Up on the west end of town we spotted a small inviting little panaderia. A good sign is locals walking about with round metal pans stacked high with pan dulce (sweet bread) goodies.

In true Mexican style, mega grocery stores or closet sized tiendas, you will take a round metal pan and a pair of tongs to select your pastry.

IVA, or sales tax, is always included – so if the display sign read $1 – a peso is what you will pay. I like not having to compute or even think about sales tax; another benefit of the Mexico experience.

We slipped in a $3 mx delight filled with queso – pretty sure it isn’t three times better but we do indulge ourselves upon occasion.

If you are like me and like your pastry and coffee in the morning, in Mexico buy your pan dulce the night before. Bakeries here in Mexico don’t start baking at 4 AM – nothing starts at 4 AM especially baked goods.

I miss running down to the doughnut store to get fresh hot donuts right out of the morning oven. But we learn to adjust. In the Mexican morning, peso pan bought the night before will all but erase the thought.

And the rich warm rush of a hot Cafecito made from locally grown coffee beans at $3. US per pound will totally wash away those doughnut whole memories. Stay Tuned!

I last wrote that the bad roads in Teocelo were getting new visitors off on the wrong foot. You will encounter better roads on the 32 kilometers drive northeast of Xalapa arriving at the pueblo Naolinco de Victoria.

Follow highway 140 through Xalapa towards Mexico City at Banderilla just north of town you will see a right turn to Naolinco; then 23kilometers from there up Federal Highways 180 & 190.

April of 2008 I wrote about a visit to Naolinco. Yesterday our friends Dave and Rosy made their first visit with Anita and I to Naolinco (NAY-OH-LEAN-COE). We had a scrumptious brunch at my favorite restaurant Pilatos.

Dave & Rosy at Naolinco

We had fresh squeezed orange juice, hot specialty bread and flavorful entrees for 208 pesos for four. That is $16.00 U.S. Dollars folks for a feast for four ravenous travelers. This included a bag of ice to take with us for the libations in Dave’s trunk. I had huevos escondidos (hidden eggs) – wow! Highly recommended.

Restaurant Pilatos Upstairs

You'll find Restaurant Pilatos on the 2nd floor here

In the room aside our dining area a mujer was pressing out hand made tortillas. The restaurant was still decorated for the Day of the Dead Holiday. Walking around the several rooms of this second floor eatery Dave and I spotted a spacious potential SuperBowl party room. That prospect led us to check on the prices of the Hotel de Parque on the same block (across from the park). 280$ pesos will get you and a partner a room.

Dave Captures a Photo of a Couple of Potential Hotel de Parque Patrons

I have oft mentioned that many small towns in Mexico focus on one manufactured item sold by many stores throughout a town. Taxco’s many silver shops, Monte Blanco’s bamboo furniture, Chavarillio’s Mexican tiles etc. Naolinco is the shoe town. Handmade leather boots, belts, purses, travel bags and more can be had for very reasonable prices.

From our Casa Campanas townhouse to Naolinco is more than an hour drive including some very scenic terrain. Great food and finely crafted handmade leather items as well as good roadways and a clean and charming community make Naolinco a shoo-in winner of a visit. Stay Tuned!

Some years ago when we were new to the area a fellow that had been here a couple of years took me to task for remarking about the amount of trash cast on the sides of the road and the holes and generally poor condition of the roadways between Coatepec, Teocelo, Xico Viejo and Xico.

This person suggested something to the effect that if I didn’t like it I should not consider living here. Of course we now do live here. His suggestion fell on deaf ears. There are many good reasons to be here without maintaining a blind eye to the things that are not so good.

BJ and Carlos are here once again from NOB. They have been staying with us while they have been finding a rental and now getting moved in. Sunday the four of us took a ride to Teocelo to get shrimp cocktails and beers at one of our favorite haunts.

It is not far, about 7 miles from Casa Campanas in Xico. The restaurant is at the entry of town. After we decided to head into the center of town and beyond. We drove through Indepencia and then Monte Blanco. I took advantage of the fact Carlos was driving to enjoy the scenery.

However I was greatly disappointed in the fact that the road was in terrible condition. Carlos remarked that the towns were not appealing. I think chiefly this was due to his needing to be diligently looking at the path in front of him to avoid huge, tire damaging craters. In more than a few places we simply had to slowly drive through the gullies as no relief was in sight.

Not having any knowledge about road building I remain confounded as to how the roads in our area are in simple terms horrible. On the surface it seems that a great deal of effort is expended to maintain these thoroughfares and yet they are almost always in disrepair?

The roadway from San Marcos de Leon all the way to the far end of Monte Blanco is simply awful. Sadly the worst stretch is within the center of Teocelo. As we driving out of Teocelo proper we spotted a new friend Rob who we had met during a real estate search. Rob is an artisan guitar maker who I plan on devoted an entire entry on soon.

Rob spotted we honked and both vehicles came to a stop. Rob and I got out of our respective vehicles to chat. Early on in conversation I asked, “What is going on with the roads here?”

Rob had his theory as to their lack of attention. Whatever the reason the road conditions create a very shoddy appearance especially in that they are the introduction to the area – it is very sad.

While lacking any knowledge about what it takes to make and maintain roads, I can write that the poor construction and maintenance of the roadways will lead to less interest in the community.

Carlos brought an extra set of shock absorbers with him from the U.S. This while the current set on his vehicle is about a year old. While this may seem unusual, I think cars here get longer service from their windshield wipers than their shock absorbers.

Be prepared to spend a lot of time watching the road in front of you when you visit our area, and if you can look past the road conditions Teocelo is a charming place to visit. Stay Tuned!