At the current extreme southeast end of Zicatela Beach Strip the last restaurant is “El Jardin” (The Garden). El Jardin is not quite one year old (one in May). It is just possible the last is first in quality eateries along the Strip.
We found ourselves returning several times in spite of trying to visit as many restaurants as possible in order to give you a good review of Puerto Escondido restaurants.
The other morning as we approached the entrance to El Jardin there was an hombre sleeping on the sidewalk. Taking an alternative route, we avoided a fellow selling cigars and another hawking colorful fish mobiles. In Puerto Escondido, mesmerizing views of the Pacific Ocean co-exist with roadside trash, stray beach dogs strolling on the beach, and any oceanfront siesta is sure to be interrupted by a endless stream of vendors displaying everything from surreal carved masks to colorful hammocks.
El Jardin owner Franco is easy to engage about his restaurant and Puerto Escondido – which he knows well, having been here nearly before the completion of paved roads in Puerto, when the fishing village and former coffee port became known as one of the world’s premier surfing spots in the 1970’s. In truth Franco and his family have been here 28 years. “You want to hear stories about Puerto Escondido? I have many.” Franco cheerfully declares.
Don Franco Greets Us
A former an Italian fashion designer, Franco spent the first 15 years in Puerto operating a fashion establishment on the Adoquin. Since then he has been a restaurateur in four different locations along the Zicatela Strip. Don Franco truly is a Renaissance man!
Having been to two of the four El Jardin locations I can say the latest edition is inviting, airy and warmly decorated; perhaps the best designed of the Strip eateries.
Here and there at El Jardin there are signs of Franco’s twelve year journey as a Born Again Christian. He beams when the subject of his faith comes to the fore. He proudly points out that our table has a quote from John 7:38 (…there shall flow living water) obscurely painted on the tabletop.
El Jardin has an excellent menu providing many choices. Try the Four Cheeses Macaroni for only 60 pesos ($4.68 U.S.). Don Franco explains there are actually five cheeses, “Cinco Quesos just did not sound good!” I noted a gleam in his eye overhearing him tell a table of diners that he pays 50% more for his cheese to provide the best. The food at El Jardin bears out his quest for excellence.
We noticed they have a La Pavoni espresso maker similar to our own. I had an excellently prepared cappuccino with one of their exquisite desserts.
There is a marvelous wood burning oven and a large gas fired pizza oven at the back of the rear dining room. The kitchen looks capable and clean. Franco told us, “I started preparing food that would not get you ill before anyone else here.” It has gone from food safe from intestinal stress to gourmet dining at its best; and at moderate prices – fulfilling Puerto Escondido’s reputation of being an affordable imperfect paradise.
El Jardin’s menu includes many vegetarian offerings unlike most of your carne-pollo-tortilla restaurants. It truly is must stop along the Zicatela Strip. If you are fortunate enough to be there when Franco is scurrying about (a very likely situation) do not be timid about engaging him – he is a delightful fellow; and as for the food – you will not find any better.
Soon the Calypso Frugal Travelers will be heading back to Xico. The three weeks we have had in Puerto have been special – a warming from the cold, damp winter. Life is good! Stay Tuned.
Canadians and Americans typically have a very one dimensional perspective of Mexico. The truth is quite different.
Our experience here in Puerto Escondido is quite different from our home in Xico, Veracruz.
Next to the difference in attire (shorts worn here year round), the most remarkable difference perhaps is the lack of shrines and churches.
In the Xalapa area and Xico in particular you will encounter a capilla (small chapel) or iglesia (church) on virtually every street – here in Puerto I have yet to see either.
This isn’t to suggest a lack of religiosity here. Locals flock a few hours north of Puerto Escondido to Santa Catarina Juquila; and often crawl on hands and knees the last two kilometers to the iglesia. Here there is the Sanctuary of Juquila where a famous statue of the Virgin Mary is prayed to petitioning for one’s needs or desires.
The one-foot (30 cm) tall statue survived a fire in 1633 that destroyed the entire village where it was located at the time. At the beginning of the 18th century, the statue was moved to Santa Catarina Juquila where the sanctuary was built for it. Thousands of the faithful visit this statue from across the state of Oaxaca, other parts of Mexico and beyond its borders. Read more here.
We have no Ocean for a vista in Xico, but we do have Pico de Orizaba and other mountain ranges. Here in Puerto we do not see tree lined roads interspersed with coffee plants and banana trees. Mexico isn’t all cacti and sandy beaches.
Most of the Escondido citizenry speak some English; all most all can convert numbers from Spanish to English – this is after all a tourist community. In the Xalapa area seldom will you encounter a person able to even speak a few words in English. Here you will have to be more cautious about discussing your bargaining process in front of vendors – if you are discussing offering less they have probably heard it before and understand.
One Mexican couple at the hotel we are staying has kind of taken us under their wing. Manuel and Elisa had lived here in Puerto for about 20 years, but now live in Tabasco, Chiapas. Yesterday we went shopping in town for hammock hardware (more on this soon) and to shop at the Mercado. Anita was after some cilantro.
We arrived at a booth selling cilantro. The 2 peso bunch of the green leafy vegetable gathered by a woman vendor appeared limp and more yellow than green – unappealing. Anita decided to pass on the purchase.
Later we arrived back at the same cilantro vendor for Elisa. The seller complained to Elisa that Anita would not buy her cilantro. Some feather smoothing was performed by Elisa.
Elisa explained to Anita that often times these people will refuse to sell anything to you after one of their products has been besmirched. Some will be easily offended. Competition is stiff on the streets of Mexico. Many sell the same things sold at the tienda next-door.
We have been on a learning curve and hunt for a hammock (a story in itself). Elisa advised us that whatever price is given to us it will be 200 pesos higher than what would be quoted to a Mexican. Here you have but to utter the words, “Gringo Precio” to illicit a smile from a Mexican vendor. Sure enough when we got down to the serious bargaining for a hammock the end price was 200 pesos less.
The most prominent street vendor items are hammocks, bags, necklaces, colorful mobiles, litho painted parchments, blankets and serapes, and cigars.
Along with a more cosmopolitan flavor on the surface people are not as friendly and open as they are in Xico. Every store and in every doorway you don’t see a Virgin of Guadalupe poster, statue or shrine dedicated to the First Lady of Mexico.
Last night we had dinner at Danny’s Terrace over at the Adoquín. The coconut shrimp was delicious. The restaurant was packed with gringos of all flavors: Europeans, Canadians, and Americans filled the terrace. The wait people all spoke a little English.
After we ate we walked along the Adoquín (AH-DOH-KEEN) which is dedicated to vendors selling to tourists. Three years ago when we were here you had to walk in the street as the sidewalks were full of vendors selling in front of the more established store fronts.
The store front owners organized. Now the sidewalks are clear. A block over a side street has been assigned to the non-renting vendors. And I saw this symbol sign – a first for me:
There is a preponderance of Canadians that have found Puerto Escondido – and they are apparently not afraid to make the loooong trip here (and back). Here is a dedicated Blog to a visit here by a group of four Canadians. Now their link is on Global Post (from such simple beginnings
Danny’s Terrace at Hotel Rincón de Pacífico is a hit pick with the locals and us. A must visit when in Puerto Escondido. Try the Coconut Shrimp. Come back to read about El Jardin at the end of Zicatela Strip. It is one of the best restaurants in Puerto. Stay Tuned!
Roland from the Netherlands is a tall drink of water. He was a bit slow to warm to us, but once we got into conversation he blossomed into a very affable raconteur. He is but 38 years old having escaped the Netherlands weather landing in Puerto Escondido’s Zicatela Strip some four years ago. Along with a Mexican partner, Roland is the owner of the aptly named “La Siesta Restaurant and Bar”.
La Siesta Restaurant & Bar
La Siesta is on the northwest end of Zicatela Beach, just a few palapas down from Bistro 28. It is a bit less gourmet than the Bistro however as Roland explains, “We serve quality food from lobsters to grilled Huatunango (red snapper). The location is [a] beauty at the beginning of Zicatela beach with sunset right in front (in the winter that is). Business partner is Maruka who likes the good life.”
How does a young computer engineer far from the Netherlands come to Southern Mexico to build a couple restaurants on the beach, build a house and a get-a-way? Life happens for Roland in the ‘present’ he explains. He saw so many people working on plans for the future while ignoring living for today. A visit to his web site will give you an expanded idea of what this busy hombre is up to.
La Siesta Restaurant’s Dueño – Roland
He has Omar, a one and a half year old son. He is currently building a second stage to his home in Puerto not far from the office (La Siesta). He also has a retreat in the works, “Pictures do not do justice to the beauty.” Obviously living a busy life in the present – but he suggests six months of the year here is hammock hanging season – I don’t see a lot of hammock time in Roland’s future – but then he is a live-for-today kind of guy.
Laid back with an edge, It doesn’t take a lot to get Roland revved up; talking about his philosophy for life and what he is currently up to is interesting and great fun to hear about.
Last night we had some of his side dishes after a walk on the beach. This morning we had a satisfying grande breakfast. Anita had huevos rancheros. I had chiliquillas with eggs. Both are substantial and tasty; Roland suggests they are complete meals that will last you for the entire day – no argument here.
The breakfast entrees were a step up from The Bungalows breakfast previously reported. La Siestas’ cook has been with them for more than a year and a half. “We pay a little more than average to our help for Zicatela Beach in order to keep them happy and to stay with us.”
The menu has been developed by Roland’s business partner Doña Maruka. Of course Roland has input – you will recognize his European influence. Prices are mid-level and surely worth it.
From the Beach – Look for the International Flags
It is hard to separate the man from his food; however Roland is wise for his years, interesting to talk with on many fronts; and the food will not disappoint. Don’t miss an opportunity to visit La Siesta Restaurant and Bar when in Puerto Escondido. We recommend it. Stay Tuned!
If the weather wasn’t so darned great it might just be monotonous. Up there in the U.S. it looks like things are coming apart at the seams weather wise. We continue our mission to try lots of restaurants and beaches in order to report to you – someone has to do it – any hands? I’ll stop gloating now.
There is a hotel and restaurant about midway along the strip on the opposite side of the road to the beach. Bungalows Zicatela lays claim to being the “Surfer’s Home.” If you are a surfer this seems to fit as you are mere meters from some of the best surfing in the world.
Bungalows Zicatela the Surfer’s Home – Zicatela Strip
But we are here to talk about food. The Calypso’s have eaten several times now at Bungalows Zicatela. This definitely has to be the best breakfast deal in town.
Fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee with refills, liberal portions of scrambled or fried eggs and potatoes, fruit, bread, and a couple hot cakes with real honey (in my case) or syrup. All for less than $4 U.S. It is all good – no shortcuts taken on preparation or quality.
That all makes a grand brunch if you are light eaters like the Calypso’s. You will be fed and watered until dinner time.
Last night before a long walk on the beach we enjoyed the chico (small) version of the Bungalow’s shrimp cocktail. Brimming with fresh shrimp, avocado, cilantro and of course cocktail sauce. This is nearly a meal in itself for 60 pesos (less than $5 U.S.).
The shrimp cocktails and a couple of margaritas while watching the white waves crashing across the dark panorama in a balmy 80 degrees – well it just doesn’t get any better than that. Stay Tuned!
At the top of one of the busiest tourist streets in Puerto Escondido you will find these two businesses directly across the street from each other. I suppose it suggests do this or you will need that? Curious how these kinds of business gravitate towards each other.
I have had email asking why we have a pool ocean side. It is true. Our hotel has a pool from which there is a view of the Pacific Ocean. We could talk about salty water or sand in your shorts and other vital areas – but here the issue is the undertow.
Our Motel – Night View
Beware of the Undertow.
International signs are hard to find in Mexico. But here is one in Spanish, Italian, English, French and German.
Tourists do die here from being sucked under the surf. There are safe beaches here. One can find plenty of safe water. But the beach in front of Zicatela Strip is for the professionals only.
If you are in snow north of here, imagine if you will, even though it is a sunny 85 F here cooling down to the low 70’s at night; waves breaking against sandy beaches lulling us to sleep and inviting us into danger. We must be careful. Stay Tuned!
Thursday we ventured beyond Puerto Escondido. We had read up on Zipolite Playa. It had been described as a less commercial area. We read some descriptions that included a 60’s hippy-flavor to the area – being one of those I decided I wanted to see for myself.
The plan was to head there with the intention of perhaps making reservations to spend Valentine’s Day in a romantic, private, sun filled area. The tourist’s blurbs of information on Zipolite we had read were not totally complete.
You can see on the map that about 35 miles to the east of Puerto Escondido is the Pochutla area which includes Zipolite (ZEE-POE-LEE-TAE). It is mid distance between Puerto Escondido and the more popular Hualtulco.
Highway 200 runs along the southern coast of Mexico. It is just a half mile or so above (north) of the Zicatela Strip and our motel. We headed out bright and early around 11 AM (remember we are on vacation here).
The 35 miles along Highway 200 are relatively fast with a few slow down areas and occasional road damage slow downs – but by Mexico standards – a pretty decent road. We turned right (south) at a sign “La Redonda” redonda means round, there is a circular route off of Hwy 200 and then back on at Puerto Angel. Along this route you will find several beaches (Playas).
Playa Ventanilla (little window) is where the locals are helping preserve the turtles by collecting eggs and placing them in a protected area until they hatch. Then the hatchlings are released. The turtles were once plentiful before they and their eggs were over harvested. You will find crocodiles here.
Other wildlife in the area, many of which are protected species, include crocodiles (crocodylus acutus), many green iguanas, a few black iguanas, white tailed deer, pigmy skunk, coatimundi, tropical anteater (Tamandua), raccoon, fresh-water turtles, armadillo, the jaguarundi and the possum.
Here you will find thatched and adobe constructed cabanas – you can rent everything from a hammock under a palapa to full blown three star hotel accommodations. Checkout all of TomZaps information.
We went past the turnoffs to several beaches before arriving at Zipolite.
Zipolite Playa West End – Not Too Crowded Thursday Afternoon
The little pueblo is sleepy in the middle of the week. The tattoo parlor was closed. A few restaurants were open and some not. We had the feeling the area was setup to cater to the more off-beat (like us). There were even signs depicting vegetarian food and natural juices.
There was a rehabilitation center of some sort – different than the Betty Ford Clinic I assure you – but perhaps seeking the same sorts of clients and results. “Dar La Luz”, which means literally to give light. There is also a rehabilitation program center(s?) for disabled people.
We walked down to the beach. There were a few naked people – huh? Turns out that nudity is accepted (though not legal) on Zipolite beach but is not welcomed in the restaurants. Nudity is more common on Playa los Amores, just to the west of Zipolite.
A Walk on the Wild Side
A wonderful couple in our motel advises that the nude beach is frowned upon and there is an effort a foot to close it down or better stated clothe it up.
There are numerous small restaurants and places to stay on and near the beach. It is geared more toward the younger set on a budget. The strong undertow in this area can make it dangerous for swimming. We heard stories in Puerto Escondido about a couple foreigners dying each year from the undertow. There is too much wave action for snorkeling as well. The main section of the beach in Zipolite is called Roca Blanca, named for the bird-poop covered rock just offshore.
RENT ME! OK Back to Puerto Escondido.
The popular clothing-optional beach possibilities didn’t interest us. The water was a luscious blue, the Pacific Coast beaches are the best – enough sun to breakout the high number sun block.
In the end we thought we are staying at a wonderful motel with a pool, a room with a view of the ocean and quick access to some fine restaurants and entertainment – all that suits us. We decided to stay where we are for the weekend – and beyond.
Reading of all the weather problems to the north and even as short of distance northeast as our Xalapa area (rain and high 50’s highs for the foreseeable future) makes us think we are happy right here with mid 80’s daytime temperatures and high 60’s to low 70’s night time.
Obviously February is a good month to be here! Going to go find a Laundromat – we are here for a while longer so Stay Tuned!
Thursday February 11th 2010, 10:30 am
Filed under: Mexico
No review of Oaxaca would be complete without some mention of libations. We are in the Mexican State known for its mezcal production – no worm is safe in the state of Oaxaca – quite simply it will most likely end up at the bottom of a bottle – as do many tourists in a less literal fashion.
Traditional Famoso Mezca
For the less initiated tequila and mezcal are made from the spiky leafed maguey plant. However they taste quite different. Tequila is made solely from the blue agave plant while mezcal is made from other varieties of the maguey plant.
Some place mescal in the pedestrian lane of the agave plants – but there is a high end quality that is very flavorful. Do not sell mescal or mezcal short.
Mezcal taken from the Náhuatl word mexcalmetl is a combination of the indigenous pulque and the distillation process introduced by the Spanish. It was Cortez who brought the technology of distillation to Mexico when he landed in 1519. The Moors had taught the Spaniards this art some 700 years earlier. It was just a short time before the indigenous peoples began to use their native maguey for producing mezcal with these newly learned methods.
The worm (grub actually) lives inside the fleshy leaves of the agave or maguey plants. Called gusano de maguey, or even gusanito (‘little worm’), the worm, is traditionally added to each bottle of mescal. I understand they are quite tasty fried with some onion and garlic – but I have yet to indulge in that delicacy.
Pick Your Worm – Or Grab a Handful!
What I haven’t passed up is the smoky mezcal with gusano de maguey in the bottle. Beyond Hotel Sante Fe (further northwest) there is a street of shops “Calle Perez Gazga”. This is a pedestrian only street known as the Adoquín that parallels Playa Principal. We will be visiting Perez Gazga a number of times during our Puerto Escondido adventures as there are some terrific shops from scuba diving to fine furniture and everything in between.
Here there is an inviting shop with wall to wall bottles – more than 99 and seldom do any fall.
I couldn’t resist a visit inside. The exclusively mescal shop features “El Famoso” “Minero”, “Pechuga” “Gusano” “Crème de Mezcal” and Don Lucio.
The topography of Oaxaca is the most varied in all of Mexico. Oaxaca City is in the center of a confluence of three great valleys at an altitude of 6,500 feet. There are mountains, plains, fertile valleys, tropical jungles and the Pacific Ocean all creating many differing growing zones for countless varieties of maguey plants.
All these varieties in this tienda came from Santiago Matalan. Oaxaca; sometimes referred to as the world capital of mescal. You will find mescal producers in other Mexican states such as Zacatecas and Guerrero. But right here in this little shop in Puerto Escondido we could get jovens, añejos, reposados, cremas, and frutas mescals.
Here you will find the real deal made with great pride for the magical process of making the ceremonial, social and medicinal drink. There is no cheap imitation, diluted and chemically altered mescal products sold here.
I was treated to some samples – you can’t try many or you will find yourself unable to recall which you liked best. The varieties I tried had a smoky fruity bouquet. It is not for the faint of heart, yet once tasted, you won’t want to stop the sampling.
The Pachuga was displayed in a traditional glazed crock sealed with a cork. Attached is partially glazed clay sipping cup. I had to have one to bring back.
Pachuga Mezcal in Traditional Crock with Vaso (cup)
We spent a few hours at Playa Carrizalillo where the calm waters due to its southern exposure make it a fine beach for swimming. Here you will find some beach side restaurants – food delivered to your unbrella covered chairs and tables – very civilized. There is even boat transportation from Zicatela Playa to Carrizalillo (50 pesos per rider).
Carrizalillo Playa
We met some nice folks here from Iowa. Husbands here 20 days, wives 10 days – couldn’t figure that out? They have been coming here for eleven years and follow the TomZap Forum – good information on the southern Mexico beach areas on TomZap pages by the way.
We headed back to the Zicatela strip where we had a veggie burger at The Spot.
The [Burger] Spot
The French fries are of the frozen variety and the plates are remarkably covered in plastic bags (saves on washing I suppose – but environmentally?). Prices are very reasonable including 10 peso Indio beers. Nothing remarkable but maybe we can get some input from real burger eaters?
Just Do It! (Somebody has too!)
Today an exploratory trip to Zipolite about 35 miles to the east . Stay Tuned!
