Starting off earlier in the month and running through 26th of July is Xiquenada. This is an annual Festival happening in Xico. This week it culminates into essentially non-stop partying with bands, vendor stands, grand arches of flowers adorning the fronts of some churches, bull runs in the streets both the firework laden and horn wielding versions, a marathon run, two days of professional bull fights in the local ring and the religious parading of our patron saint. The celebrations principal star is the Santa Maria Magdalena our areas very own patron Saint.
Xico Viejo (Old Xico) was formed in 1600. They don’t know exactly when but the story goes that a little burro showed up in Xico alone. The burro was carrying two containers. No one paid attention to the little burro as burros were the chief mode of transportation. After a couple of days roaming loose, simply hanging around, it began staying around a capilla (a religious shrine).
Some hombres removed the two containers to see what the burro was transporting. Inside one container was a plaster casting of Maria Magdalena. In the other were many candles. The mysterious little burro and its cargo were deemed by the local friars as a message from God that Santa Maria Magdalena should Xico’s patron saint.
This afternoon the local folks will march a statue of Maria Magdalena along a beautiful colored sawdust alfombra (carpet). She will be crowned and placed to bserve.
Many workers started early this morning creating the carpet using bags of colored sawdust, first sifting it, then sprinkling it over stencils creating beautiful patterns and pictures. The elegant sawdust carpet is a work of art like complex sand castles that are soon washed away. It is really something to see those saw dust tapestries.
These colorful patterns stretch the entire length of the main street of Xico.
Around midnight with much pomp and circumstance the statue will be marched back to the Cathedral at the other end of the street. We will be there watching this and the accompanying colorful fireworks show.
Many streets in the little pueblo are closed off. Vendors of all kinds, mariachis and street concerts abound. There are fair rides, and of course the running of the bulls like Pamplona, Spain. It is frightening and can be a blood bath. Last year it was reported 15 people were seriously injured – two gravely injured having to be transported to nearby Xalapa by helicopters.
Apparently Dedicated to Michael Jackson – A Fireworks Toro (ENLARGE HERE)
Xico has a bull ring. The professionals will engage six bulls today and again on the 22nd of July. There will be another street running of the bulls on the 22nd as well. In between there will be non-stop partying.
We will be participating in a lot of the activities and giving you reports – save running with the bulls. We have documented past bull fights (in the ring) and even a local running of the bulls in the street right here in our Colonia.
All this celebrating includes a good amount of fireworks. On the Cathedral steps I saw metal launching pads being loaded with sky bound rockets. On several side streets were the traditional wood caged ‘bulls’ laden with hundreds of fireworks. The firework toros are dawned by some loco locals that run up and down the streets with a crowd of dare devils, as the rockets shoot off in all directions. Here too people are hurt with burns from wayward rockets – it is pagan fun based on celebrating the religious saint.
Workers Painting with Colored Sawdust (ENLARGE HERE)
Like several other times though out the year life as usual stops and the parties and rituals begin. It is really something to see and participate in. Most towns in Mexico have these kinds of celebration and yet people come from far and wide to experience this particular festival.
A group of people called ‘mayordomas’ donate, plan and work for months before the actual event. The orchestration of the process is amazing.
The mix of borrachos and worshipers crowding and sharing elegant sawdust carpeted streets with bulls, vendors, firework launching hombres, children in colorful costumes and tourists is something not to be missed if you happen to be anywhere near here in July.
Jesus on the Cross being upstaged by Maria Magdalena – A Forbidden Photo Inside the Cathedral
Since we are usually back in the U.S. during this time we have missed the fun – but not this year. Stay Tuned.
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I may have read your post a little fast, but how many bulls does Santa Maria Magdalena fight in one day? Your last photograph says it all, as far as I am concerned, for most of these parades.
Comment by Steve Cotton 07.19.09 @ 5:17 pmGreat Pictures, as always John !
Do you have a high resolution of the ‘church2′ pic?
Comment by Ignacio 07.19.09 @ 9:55 pmI hope you post some pictures of the corrida de toros and the fiesta brava.
Comment by Carlos 07.20.09 @ 8:35 amCarlos – The bull situation is murky – MANY people are anti-bull fights and even running the poor beasts in the street.
I tend to take Hemingway’s ‘Death in the Afternoon’ approach
Most of the folks that are anti bull fighting love to eat their red meat (we don’t) – I guess if you only see your meat in white paper it bothers you not how that red meat got to that point? At least the carne in the ring gets a fighting chance.
Comment by John Calypso 07.20.09 @ 8:50 amWe were in Xico in 2005, near the end of the festival, so we missed seeing the exquisit “alfombra.” We did, however, see the parading of the elaborately “garbed” statue of Sta. Maria Magdalena, through the Xico streets.
We were told that each year various groups of local ladies make elaborate vestidos for Sta. MM, and that every day during the fiesta, her garments are changed and she (SMM) is carried through the streets of Xico in a very reverent procession.
BTW, another elaborate “alfombra” is made and walked on by the religious faithful in Antigua, Guatemala each year during Holy Week.
Once, during Semana Santa, we saw part of a “bullfight” in Ditzya, a small puebla on the outskirts of Merida. Shortly after the bulls were killed, they were butchered and the meat was offered for sale at tables set up outside the little bullring.
Please, keep up the excellent documentation, Juan. We can all enjoy the fiesta vicariously through your splendid photos and words.
Comment by bj 07.20.09 @ 10:10 amBJ – There is an actual museum in Xico housing all the sainted repentant prostitute’s dresses. Lot of dough is spent dressing that statuary.
The meat is offered for sale in a ‘butcher’s’ tent right below the stands at the Bull Ring stadium.
Last night we were on the main street of Xico at midnight – the fireworks display was spectacular!
Today they will march the arco up main street and place at the front of the golden domed cathedral. We will be there to document with photos.
Comment by John Calypso 07.20.09 @ 10:20 amJuan, is it really forbidden to photograph in the church in Xico? BTW, that is a lovely photo inside the church.
Comment by Billie 07.20.09 @ 12:18 pmYour photos are magnificent, and really complement all the lavish decorations for the festival. Why would they go to all that effort to decorate the church and then not permit photos?
Enjoy! But stay off the streets while the bulls are running.
Comment by 1st Mate 07.20.09 @ 7:43 pmBillie – I think photos are discouraged rather than being outright forbidden – someone may be with another’s wife? But seriously it is more the looks I get wielding around my camera with a long lens.
Glad you like the photo – coming from you that is high praise
Today I shot 305 photos in Xico. I wish there was a way to share about 200 of them – tonight is the music night with lots of bands and mariachis we are about to leave.
Comment by John Calypso 07.20.09 @ 8:04 pmthat place is hometown i have 30 years living in america and never forget this great place
Comment by jorge ramirez 07.24.09 @ 12:00 amI like your blog because of the pictures you post. My husband is from Tlaxcala and always tells me of the sawdust carpets and how beautiful they are but I never got to see them until seeing your blog. Thanks!!
Comment by stephanie 07.24.09 @ 3:40 pmnosgusta que ajan esto
Comment by esau 08.08.09 @ 10:06 amyosoy de ursulo galvan y estoi en las vejas nevada grasias por aser esto porque solo asi podemos ver nuestro pueblo y nuestras fiestas patronales muchisimas grasias ett esau
Comment by esau 08.08.09 @ 10:10 amMy boyfriend was told about this festival when he was there in February of 2006, and we have been wanting to go ever since. We have finally decided to go in 2010.
Of course, every trip to Mexico for us is also a scouting trip to figure out where we want to live when we finally move down there, but he was especially taken with Xico, so that’ll be a bigger part of this trip than usual. He shares your love of coffee though, so that may have had something to do with it!
Comment by Zannie 08.29.09 @ 10:03 pmLeave a comment
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