If you have read any reviews of Mexico you already know it is a noisy country. Quiet at 10 PM until 8 in the morning kinds of rules simply do not exist.
If you can’t sleep unless it is quieter than a moment of silence at a wake you will either learn to sleep with wax earplugs or to sleep not at all.
I have a little secret to let you in on. During your waking hours the best defense to noise is a good bellowing offense.
If you have read here even a little you already know I am from a Rock N’ Roll background; Music before it started taking second fiddle to videos was my bread and butter. Now it is heart and soul to life across the border.
The secret to the adjustment to the sounds of Mexico is to embrace them – get the finest and most raucous music that delights you – turn the volume to at least 8 and become part of the problem!
If you can sit on your hands while Mariachi’s are revving up then you are probably not breathing.
This beautiful sunny morning under the volcano, that is Pico de Orizaba, the second most prominent volcanic peak in the world after Africa’s Mount Kilimanjaro, I am listening at volume 8 to the CD VIVA MEXICO Y SUS CANCIONES.
The 1926 song El Son de La Negra lights the morning. A popular set starter song among Mariachi groups, and particularly for this rendition by Mariachi Vargas de Tecalitlán (recognized by many as the finest Mariachi band ever) because of its elaborate musical arrangement, written by Silvestre Vargas, the one-time musical director of the group.
In this arrangement by Vargas string and wind sections of the group are given a chance to alternate, providing an appropriate showcase for the group’s musicians to interact. Breathe it in – it will rock you!
Life doesn’t get any better than this.
“He upon whose heart the dust of Mexico has lain will find no peace in any other land.”
Malcolm Lowry
Stay Tuned!
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I do this as well. I blare my music to drown out the reggaeton that people in the barrio love to blast. To sleep, I turn on something that creates white noise – usually the a/c unit or a fan. That usually is enough to drown out the street noise at night. Of course when there is a party going on nearby until 6am, I unpack the earplugs.
Comment by Leah Flinn 12.02.09 @ 9:46 amBravo for Mariachi Vargas! I think they are still based in Guad.
Bravo also for Malcom Lowry’s quote, which I first read on the back cover of Neill James’ book Dust On My Heart about her travels and early life here in Ajijic. Good reading.
I suspect I am the Chief Volume Offender in my neighborhood of northlanders. But I will soon be moving to a neighborhood where I will have plenty of competition for the title.
Comment by Steve Cotton 12.02.09 @ 3:08 pmI thought about you when they were having a “program” in the primary school today. The “magician” performing for the students had the volume on the sound system turned up full force. It is extremely unusual for me to hear noise here unless it is the chldren playing and that, to me, isn’t noise!
Comment by Babs 12.02.09 @ 5:27 pmMy Mexican friends are amazed when I tell them that I love Bandamex, the Mexican folk music channel. Imagine telenovellas set to music. Sort of like American country music. Unfortunately, I think I am the only Gringo on this rock who likes it.
Comment by islagringo 12.04.09 @ 9:02 pmJust came across you blog today and I’m enjoying it very much! I will be checking back regularly to read your comments and enjoy your photos. It’s interesting and instructive to read other people’s perspectives on life in Mexico. You are clearly at home there! I spent 1956-60, my teen years, growing up in Mexico (Guad), and I still love the country and the culture. I’ve been back many times, but even after 50 years, some things remain the same: pandulce, neighborhood vendors who announce their arrival with some distinctive sound, loud (but great!) music, adventurous bus rides, and, of course, the friendliness and courtesy of the people. I’d like to link to your blog from mine, which I just started (www.dbl-exposure.blogspot.com). It chronicles those years I spent in Mexico as a kid. Please let me know if it’s OK to link. Thanx!
Comment by Dave Gardner 12.18.09 @ 2:53 pmDave – I read your introduction and first installment – I will go back.
Happy to exchange links -
Saludos,
John
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